Stunning riesling’s price Pol­ish

Western Suburbs Weekly - - Wine - with John Jens

EV­ERY cou­ple of years we mar­vel at how de­li­cious David O’Leary’s O’Leary Walker Pol­ish Hill River Ries­lings are, and at how un­der-priced they re­main.

It is one of the Clare Val­ley’s and Aus­tralia’s finest ries­lings

The soon-to-be-re­leased 2016 vin­tage crossed the tast­ing ta­ble re­cently and it is stunning.

There have been some mar­vel­lous re­leases in the past and this is amongst the very best, per­haps even the finest to date.

It is grat­i­fy­ing to see the guys have lifted the price to $29.50 from the mid-$20s where it was and which in­cor­rectly in­di­cates that this is a mid-range com­mer­cial re­lease.

The rea­son I say grat­i­fy­ing is be­cause these two con­sis­tently pro­duce some of Aus­tralia’s finest ries­lings but they have, in an at­tempt to be fair to their cus­tomers, con­sis­tently un­der­priced the wine.

If it was priced at $35 or $37, pre­mium wine buy­ers would take the wine more se­ri­ously.

There is a sec­ond point here, and that is wine­mak­ers do not have sig­nif­i­cant in­comes.

By giv­ing away, un­nec­es­sar­ily, four or five dol­lars a bot­tle (or $50-60 a dozen) over five thou­sand cases, these two are not re­ward­ing them­selves, their wives and their chil­dren for the work and qual­ity level.

The 2016 Pol­ish Hill River Riesling is light, fresh and fra­grant, to an al­most ethe­real level, and the char­ac­ters within these are the dis­tinc­tive, tra­di­tional and fa­mous va­ri­etal and re­gional char­ac­ters from SA’s Clare Val­ley.

The palate too shares these char­ac­ters and is also light, fresh and with a crisp and re­fresh­ing lin­ger­ing cit­ric edge lead­ing to the cleans­ing fin­ish.

Quite sim­ply, one of the most de­li­cious and finest val­ues amongst Aus­tralia’s ries­lings. Mar­vel­lous now and will live to 2035 with ease if stored prop­erly.

The O’Leary Walker Pol­ish Hill River Riesling 2016 will be re­leased in early July.

18.5 points and $29.50.

Clare Val­ley Cel­lar Door through the vines. In­set: David O’Leary and Nick Walker tast­ing the 2016 Pol­ish Hill River Riesling fresh off the bot­tling line ear­lier this year.

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