Fuyu ex­ceeds own lofty rep­u­ta­tion

Western Suburbs Weekly - - Food - with Ary­lene Westlake-Jen­nings

WALK­ING into Fuyu, David Coomer’s lat­est mod­ern Asian of­fer­ing and the new­est in­car­na­tion of his restau­rant space on Stir­ling High­way, I had no ex­pec­ta­tions.

I never had the priv­i­lege of din­ing at Star Anise or Pata Ne­gra and so ev­ery­thing I knew about this man’s tal­ents was through pure hearsay. But boy did ev­ery­one rave about his food.

And if Fuyu’s In­sta­gram and Face­book page are any­thing to go by, the menu is al­ways go­ing to be ex­cit­ing.

In fact, Coomer has been down at his farm in Man­jimup busy hunt­ing truf­fles with his dogs Olive and Hazel (okay, maybe not so much Hazel) and is host­ing a Truf­fle Din­ner at Fuyu tonight for $95 per per­son.

“It’s all Asian flavours and we’re keep­ing it sim­ple. We’ve got a cou­ple of dumplings, re­ally sim­ple sushi with black truf­fle, steamed scal­lops, and mar­ron with miso and truf­fles,” Coomer said.

But back to the night we were there. It was all black ceil­ings, black walls, black plates, black chop­sticks and dark tim­bers. So a cock­tail felt just per­fect and the Old Maid, a con­coc­tion of Ply­mouth gin, Alvear Fino, cu­cum­ber, mint and lime, set the taste­buds singing.

The menu at Fuyu nat­u­rally lends it­self to sharing, bro­ken down into snacks, plates and sweets. There’s also a FuMe op­tion, where for $75 per per­son, the whole ta­ble is fed by the chefs.

Our night be­gan with a med­ley of bite-sized teasers in­clud­ing the oc­to­pus with kim­chi and Sriracha atop an ink bis­cuit, the gelati­nously smooth pig’s head katsu topped with picked cab­bage, a slice of chilli and sesame, as well as half­shell scal­lops bal­anced del­i­cately on slices of pineap­ple and por­tions of caramelised duck neck.

But it was the beef tartare that got me go­ing. Rough, hand-chopped skirt steak that was del­i­cately moist mixed in with a sea­sonal se­lec­tion of Asian herbs in­clud­ing shiso and rice paddy herb and crumbly salt-cured duck egg yolk. Thin sliv­ers of ex­tra yolk were added on top. And then there’s that bright red cracker.

“I wanted some­thing crispy as well in it and my sous chef Tim sug­gested us­ing beet­root in the cracker. I thought it was a bit of a stretch (laughs) – I was think­ing a prawn cracker for a fishy flavour – but now you get a sweet roasted root veg­etable flavour and the colour’s pretty vi­brant as well,” Coomer said.

I was hooked. And so is Coomer, it seems.

“I love Fuyu. I was miss­ing Asian cook­ing and there was a bit of bore­dom. I wanted to do some­thing dif­fer­ent and some­thing more fun and that’s what this is,” Coomer said.

If the man so ex­alted for his deft hand at Asian flavours calls this fun, I’m stoked the fun has just be­gun.

For more in­for­ma­tion about tonight’s Truf­fle Din­ner, call 9389 5517.

Ritchie Pictures: An­drew www.com­mu­ni­typix.com.au d457004

Beef tartare with Viet­namese herbs and an Old Maid cock­tail (top) and scal­lop with duck neck (above).

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