New highs for wine

Western Suburbs Weekly - - Wine - with John Jens

AUS­TRALIAN wine has never been bet­ter.

Wine­mak­ers of the past could never have en­vi­sioned the qual­ity and the plea­sure that wine­mak­ers to­day can pro­vide to con­sumers.

Be­low is a tiny cross-sec­tion of the finest tasted re­cently. Ad Hoc Wallflower Ries­ling 2016

It doesn’t make any dif­fer­ence whether you look at James Hal­l­i­day’s Aus­tralian Wine Com­pan­ion or the fine wine stores’ shelves, Larry Cheru­bino has ce­mented his place as a crafts­man of many of Aus­tralia’s best and best value wines in almost ev­ery style.

At $21, and less on spe­cial, this is one of the finest ries­lings.

18 points. An­gove Long Row Chardon­nay Pinot Noir Sparkling NV

An­gove con­sis­tently pro­duces a cross-sec­tion of ta­ble wines in most va­ri­eties that are among Aus­tralia’s best in the $7 to $15 range. Now this An­gove Long Row Chardon­nay Pinot Noir Sparkling NV joins them.

Fine, soft, fresh, mod­ern, creamy and easy.

17.5 points and $10. Vasse Felix Fil­ius Caber­net Sau­vi­gnon 2014

The re­badged and re-blended ver­sion of the Caber­net Mer­lot.

Soft, juicy, and while rich and ap­peal­ing, re­tains a de­gree of classy re­straint.

One of Aus­tralia’s and Mar­garet River’s great value caber­nets.

$28 and 18.4 points. Charles Hei­d­sieck Brut Reserve Rosé NV

I chal­lenge you to put this in to a line-up with the world’s great sparklers to see what you think.

Creamy, mel­low, long and seam­less. Bril­liant fin­ish.

$160 and 19 points. Deep Woods Reserve Chardon­nay 2015

Run­ner-up to a cou­ple of Cham­pion Chardon­nay tro­phy win­ners, this is won­der­fully bal­anced with mar­vel­lous length, fin­ish and af­ter­taste.

Fuller in style, but also with low keyed re­straint.

$46.50 and 18.8 points. Flame­tree SRS Wilyabrup Caber­net Sau­vi­gnon 2014

Full flavoured caber­net, densely and in­tensely flavoured and of enor­mous length. De­li­cious and sat­is­fy­ing. Bril­liant fin­ish and af­ter­taste – drink or cel­lar.

18.8 points. Cullen Kevin John Legacy Se­ries Chardon­nay ‘Moon Op­po­site Sat­urn Har­vest’ 2014

Full, com­plex, tex­tu­ral, enor­mous length and while ob­vi­ously very young, is stun­ning. Just 82 dozen made. The great­est Aus­tralian white wine that I have tasted.

$295 and 19.3 points.

Cullen Wines man­ag­ing di­rec­tor and chief wine­maker Vanya Cullen among the vines.

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