Road test for­vasse Felix

Western Suburbs Weekly - - Wine - with John Jens

A NUM­BER of the cur­rent re­leases from the Vasse Felix win­ery are the finest re­leased un­der th­ese la­bels.

The 2013 caber­net sau­vi­gnon and the 2014 Fil­ius caber­net sau­vi­gnon come to mind, as does the 2015 Fil­ius chardon­nay.

The chardon­nays and caber­nets from this win­ery have im­proved al­most ev­ery vin­tage since the mid­dle 2000s but why is this?

I love sto­ries that ex­plain things. A well-known west­ern sub­urbs guy used to buy a new Porsche ev­ery year.

He loved their cut­ting-edge tech­nol­ogy in ev­ery new re­lease and then Porsche with­drew from com­pet­i­tive in­ter­na­tional mo­tor rac­ing and he re­fused to buy the newer mod­els.

His story is that at that stage, the cars stopped get­ting bet­ter year by year be­cause their team was no longer be­ing chal­lenged as it had been dur­ing their rac­ing era.

Af­ter about 10 years, Porsche went back to in­ter­na­tional mo­tor rac­ing.

Al­most im­me­di­ately the lessons learned from the track flowed into the road cars and put Porsche amongst the in­no­va­tion lead­ers once more; our man started buy­ing Porsches again.

In this wine story, it is Vasse Felix’s in­no­va­tive work be­hind the scenes with its pre­mium Heytes­bury chardon­nay that is gain­ing Vir­ginia Will­cock’s wine­mak­ing team added knowl­edge, year by year, in both viti­cul­ture and ev­ery as­pect of wine mak­ing.

Th­ese tri­als have in­cluded de­tailed work on wild and bar­rel fer­men­ta­tions and on clas­si­fy­ing spe­cific vine­yard sites.

Th­ese re­sults flow on to the $45 Es­tate and the $28 Fil­ius range wines.

The 2015 Vasse Felix Fil­ius chardon­nay is the best wine un­der this la­bel to date.

In its masked line-up of 19 wines, it was clearly the best value for money.

It has a mar­vel­lous fin­ish and won­der­ful lin­ger­ing af­ter­taste. 18.4 points and $28.

Vasse Felix chief wine­maker Vir­ginia Will­cock and her wine­mak­ing team.

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