Wynns win for all

Western Suburbs Weekly - - Wine - WINE with John Jens

IN the late 1950s and ’60s, Wynns in Coon­awarra was a house­hold name for wine lovers.

Wynns was upmarket in price and con­sis­tently among Aus­tralia’s most sought af­ter and finest.

The years and decades turned over, some­times with ex­tra­or­di­nary vin­tage re­leases, and some­times not.

There is no spe­cific tim­ing, but let’s say that in about 2010, the painstak­ing viti­cul­tural work of Allen Jenk­ins and the wine­mak­ing skills of Sue Hod­ders’ team (which pre­vi­ously in­cluded Ju­lian Lang­wor­thy at Deep Woods and Luke Skeer of Devil’s Lair these days) all started to pay off.

Since then, Wynns has been back at its very best and re­leased a se­ries of both great and great value-for-money wines.

Given the work and ef­fort put in, the team now has enough qual­ity fruit to have also pro­duced a se­ries of won­der­ful, new and high-qual­ity in­di­vid­ual vine­yard la­bels.

Wynns is best known for the fa­mous Black La­bel caber­net sau­vi­gnon that has been pro­duced in ev­ery vin­tage since the 1950s, but in the early days was also known for the pre­mium and now value-for-money White La­bel Coon­awarra shi­raz.

There have been some mar­vel­lous vin­tages of Wynns Coon­awarra shi­raz in the last few years, and the 1986 (18.5 points) still re­mains one of Aus­tralia’s great­est ever wine val­ues.

And now comes the out­stand­ing 2015 shi­raz re­lease, which has to be in­cluded amongst the finest few.

It is pure and in­tense with soft, fra­grant edges around long, re­strained and el­e­gant cool cli­mate shi­raz fruit that has a classy, finely tex­tured mouth­feel.

Sub­tle and ap­peal­ing, the fruit is of higher qual­ity than you’d ex­pect in this price range and the same ap­plies to the wine­mak­ing.

This was tasted in a high­pro­file group of 20 shi­razes in the up to $45 price range and it was clearly both the finest and the finest value.

As for age­ing po­ten­tial, the pedi­gree is im­por­tant, just as it was with Bart Cum­mings and Gai Water­house for 15-20 years.

Do you buy this? A def­i­nite yes. $25 and 18.4 points.

Wynns Coon­awarra Es­tate se­nior wine­maker Sue Hod­der.

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