Existential crisis-inducing South Georgia is the ultimate place to both lose and find yourself.
Why are most of the best places on Earth also the hardest to get to? Are they the best places because most people don’t make it there, so inherently they haven’t been ruined by the stench of humanity yet? Or is it that they just feel like the best places, because you’ve struggled to get there and anywhere would feel like paradise in comparison to what went before? These are the questions that come to mind after riding the grey rapids of the Southern Ocean while sailing on a yacht from Southern Argentina, to the Antarctic Peninsula, and the sub-Antarctic British Territory of South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands. With no permanent human population, this is about as remote as you can get. The lack of residing humans also means there are no sandwiches for sale here – what a tease. Land Ahoy Standing aloof in the Southern Atlantic Ocean and reached only by boat, South Georgia is the type of place that when viewed on Google Maps, you have to zoom out many, many times to be able to get any idea of which countries are nearby. Spoiler: the Falkland Islands are the closest, a lazy 1,390 kilometre journey away.
Setting foot on land after being battered by the sea for a length of time is always a curiously satisfying experience, but walking on South Georgia is nothing short of orgasmic. While the Antarctic Peninsula is pretty much ‘white walker’ terrain, the islands in the sub-Antarctic receive the fringe benefits of being