Best done on a weekday afternoon, with wits kept about you. Kick off with a java jolt at pretty Pateo do Collegio / Pça Pateo do Collegio, 2 / 3105 6899 / pateocollegio.com. br, with sacred art upstairs (in Museu Anchieta). Exit left. Left again and you’re on Rua Roberto Simonsen for city photo archive Casa da Imagem at #136B / 3106 5122 / casadaimagem. sp.gov.br; Solar da Marquesa at #136A / 3105 6118 / museuda cidade.sp.gov.br, former home to Dom Pedro I’s fave ladylove; vintage tog trove Casa Juisi at #108 / 3063 5766, and multimedia space Phosphorus (see Art) upstairs. Exit left, turn right onto Rua Venceslau Brás, and aim straight over Pça da Sé (with its cathedral on your left) to join Rua Direita up ahead. Hang a second right onto former finance artery Rua São Bento and stop at the end. Spin right to espy the mighty Banespa, the São Bento monastery in the distance, and the ‘wedding cake’ Martinelli to your left. Totter down Av São João, and having made an appt., cross over to #108, a powdery pink block housing edgy gallery Estúdio Lâmina / Unit 41 / 3228 6815. Exit left, backtrack and march down Rua Líbero Badaró for a creamy pastel de Belém (custard tart) from old-fash grocery Casa Godinho at #340 / 3104 1520 / casagodinho.com. br, then at the next corner veer right across Viaduto do Chá, ducking into Baroque wonder Theatro Municipal (see above). Continue straight, as you were, to join pedestrian street Barão de Itapetininga. Halfway along on your left, note one of Oscar Niemeyer’s least feted works, Galeria Califórnia at #255, now a drab shopping mall. At the end (seeing leafy Pça da República up ahead), turn left along Av Ipiranga, over Av São Luís, until you reach Niemeyer’s iconic Copan Bldg at #200 housing impressive art sphere Pivô (see Activities/Creative Cribs). Choices. Retrace along the Copan for crowd-pleaser Bar da Dona Onça at #27-29, or exit right and curve round the left wall for Edifício Itália, zipping up to the 42/F for staggering vistas, piano-tinkling and tipples at Terraço Itália (see Bars). Bottoms up!