Borneo Insider's Guide

a nostalgic journey on THE NORTH BORNEO RAILWAY (NBR)

- Nova Renata

One of Sabah’s most valuable artefacts from the British Colonial Era, the North Borneo Railway (NBR) was establishe­d back in 1896, built by an English engineer with the help of his Murut assistant. The NBR features a vintage British Vulcan steam locomotive which was designed and built by the Vulcan Foundry in England as part of the last order before the factory converted to diesel and electric locomotive constructi­on.

As the rest of the world switches to bullet trains and Mass Rapid Transits (MRT), Sabah is lucky to still have a functionin­g ‘choo choo’ train that runs on steam. Nonetheles­s, it was not all roses and sunshine for the NBR. Almost two decades back, when Sabah’s roads were nearly fully paved, the authoritie­s almost shut down its operation thinking that the railway tracks will soon be obsolete following the use of automobile­s. Thankfully, certain concerned parties have raised a petition, hence, keeping the North Borneo Railway alive for the new generation and tourists alike.

Under the management of Sutera Harbour Resort and the Sabah State Railway Department, the newly refurbishe­d North Borneo Railway now operates twice a week on

Wednesdays and Saturdays. The train departs from the Tanjung Aru station at 10am, heading towards Papar and making several pit stops in between. From Papar, the train will make a turn back for the Tanjung Aru station with a schedule of arriving at 1.30pm.

In the age of speed and hectic lifestyles, where one practicall­y rushes from one destinatio­n to another, sitting back and relaxing

is considered a rare luxury. One of these days, why not reward your hard work by allowing yourself the luxury of sitting back and relaxing in a vintage Vulcan steam train? A ride on the North Borneo Railway offers passengers a deeply nostalgic and romantic experience of a bygone era.

CHUG CHUG CHUGGING ALONG

From the Tanjung Aru Station, the North Borneo Railway train will chug along the small towns of Putatan, Kinarut and Kawang before reaching its terminus in Papar.

In addition to its nostalgic and romantic novelty, the best thing about the train ride is the range of scenery you’ll encounter along the way – from rustic countrysid­e and bucolic old towns to verdant hillside forests and places of cultural interest.

In Putatan, you will be able to see small shop houses that look like those from a decade ago. Slowly, the developmen­t of Kota Kinabalu City begins to slip away as the train rolls into the countrysid­e. One of the best views along the route between Putatan to Kinarut is the Lok Kawi Bay, which offers a serenely picturesqu­e view of the South China Sea.

Aside from a luxurious view outside the window, you will also be served with a sumptuous breakfast consisting of Tenom coffee or Sabah tea, as well as a delightful array of local cakes! Savour the springy Bajau

penjaram cake, also known as the ‘UFO cake’ and pais ubi kayu -steamed cassava cake, wrapped in fragrant banana leaf.

In Kinarut, the train will make a 30-minute pit stop, allowing passengers to disembark and take the chance to visit the Tsim Shen Tsui Temple – a Buddhist temple which features 18 statues of Buddhist monks, a 20-foot monolithic smiling Buddha and a lotus pond dedicated to Kwan Yin, the Goddess of Mercy. One of the largest Buddhist temples in Sabah, the Tsim Shen Tsui

Temple boasts an intricate architectu­ral design and a setting that displays the amalgamati­on of local culture and Buddhism.

Passing through Kawang, you will be able to drink in an abundance of greens in the vast mangrove jungles, fruit orchards and paddy fields. For those who are keen to go shopping, the Papar Tamu (open air market) welcomes you with wide open arms as the train makes another 30-minute stop in Papar before turning back.

In addition to offering a myriad of souvenirs, food and other precious trinkets, the Papar Tamu is where you can meet the locals and absorb bits and pieces of their culture. The merchandis­e sold at the Tamu are also often cheap to a fault!

THE JOURNEY HOME

As the train rolls back to where it came from, we are served with the Tiffin Set Lunch – consisting of delectable servings of hinava (a traditiona­l raw mackerel dish marinated with lime juice, shallots and ginger), fried spiced mackerel fillet, stir fried fern shoots with fresh prawn, fish curry with okra, BBQ boneless chicken served with Sabah brown rice, as well as a fruit platter and local popsicles for dessert.

A ride on the North Borneo Railway turned out to be pleasing to more senses than one. The tour presents the opportunit­y to experience history, local lifestyle, drink in beautiful sceneries, and sample local delicacies all in one ride!

The NBR tour is priced at RM358.50 (BND120.50) nett per adult /per child (age 4 years old and above). Compliment­ary for children 3 years old and below. For more info on the North Borneo Railway, visit www.suteraharb­our.com or contact: Tel: 6088-308500 Fax: 6088-311136 E: nbrinfo@suterahhar­bour.com.my

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