The places to ex­pe­ri­ence the French Riviera at its most au­then­tic—from char­ac­ter­ful ho­tels to lo­cal restau­rants serv­ing clas­sic Provençal food.

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Fly to Nice Côte d'Azur air­port (NCE) through Paris or other ma­jor Euro­pean hubs.


Hô­tel Belles Rives This An­tibes prop­erty is housed in the his­toric Villa St.-Louis, a fa­vorite haunt for F. Scott Fitzger­ald—who wrote Ten­der Is the Night here. bellesrives. com; dou­bles from €260.

Hô­tel du Cap-EdenRoc Just be­cause it's one of the swanki­est, best-run ho­tels in the world doesn't mean this An­tibes in­sti­tu­tion lacks per­son­al­ity. Not cheap, but to­tally worth it. oetk­er­col­lec­; dou­bles from €1,270. Hô­tel Les Roches Rouges Af­ter a fives­tar re­fit, this cliff-side prop­erty near St.Raphaël aims to re­vive the orig­i­nal aes­thetic— and spirit—of the Riviera. The su­perb Provençal food is an­other pow­er­ful sell­ing point. hotelles roches­; dou­bles from €215.

La Colombe d’Or

The Roux fam­ily has been run­ning this inn in the in­land vil­lage of St.-Paul de Vence since the days when Braque and Miró paid for their guest rooms with art, and it re­mains one of the re­gion's most charm­ing places to stay. la-colombe-dor. com; dou­bles from €270.


Au­berge des Mau­res Head to this back-al­ley spot in St.-Tropez for clas­sics like pe­tits far­cis, or veg­eta­bles stuffed with ground meat. au­berge des­mau­; mains €38–€92.

Cours Sa­leya Mar­ket To sam­ple the most beau­ti­ful pro­duce in the re­gion, visit this marché in Nice. nice­ Kiosque TinTin This street-food stand in Nice of­fers a per­fect pan bag­nat: tuna, an­chovies, hard-boiled egg and salad on a bun.­quet­intin; pan bag­nat €5.50.

La Merenda Chef Do­minique Le Stanc gave up the two Miche­lin stars won at his pre­vi­ous Nice restau­rant, Le Chante­cler, to open this sim­ple 20-table Provençal spot.; mains €12–€25.

La P’tite Cour About an hour down the coast from St.-Tropez, in the fish­ing vil­lage of Sa­nary-sur-Mer, this restau­rant with a sunny court­yard is a great place to sam­ple the day's catch. lap­tite­; prix fixe from €32.

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