HOW TO SEE THE CÔTE D’AZUR
The places to experience the French Riviera at its most authentic—from characterful hotels to local restaurants serving classic Provençal food.
Fly to Nice Côte d'Azur airport (NCE) through Paris or other major European hubs.
Hôtel Belles Rives This Antibes property is housed in the historic Villa St.-Louis, a favorite haunt for F. Scott Fitzgerald—who wrote Tender Is the Night here. bellesrives. com; doubles from €260.
Hôtel du Cap-EdenRoc Just because it's one of the swankiest, best-run hotels in the world doesn't mean this Antibes institution lacks personality. Not cheap, but totally worth it. oetkercollection.com; doubles from €1,270. Hôtel Les Roches Rouges After a fivestar refit, this cliff-side property near St.Raphaël aims to revive the original aesthetic— and spirit—of the Riviera. The superb Provençal food is another powerful selling point. hotelles rochesrouges.com; doubles from €215.
La Colombe d’Or
The Roux family has been running this inn in the inland village of St.-Paul de Vence since the days when Braque and Miró paid for their guest rooms with art, and it remains one of the region's most charming places to stay. la-colombe-dor. com; doubles from €270.
Auberge des Maures Head to this back-alley spot in St.-Tropez for classics like petits farcis, or vegetables stuffed with ground meat. auberge desmaures.fr; mains €38–€92.
Cours Saleya Market To sample the most beautiful produce in the region, visit this marché in Nice. nicetourisme.com. Kiosque TinTin This street-food stand in Nice offers a perfect pan bagnat: tuna, anchovies, hard-boiled egg and salad on a bun. fb.com/kiosquetintin; pan bagnat €5.50.
La Merenda Chef Dominique Le Stanc gave up the two Michelin stars won at his previous Nice restaurant, Le Chantecler, to open this simple 20-table Provençal spot. lamerenda.net; mains €12–€25.
La P’tite Cour About an hour down the coast from St.-Tropez, in the fishing village of Sanary-sur-Mer, this restaurant with a sunny courtyard is a great place to sample the day's catch. laptitecour.com; prix fixe from €32.