THE DE­TAILS

Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia - - ESSAY -

GET­TING THERE

Huang­shan Tunxi Air­port is 65 kilo­me­ters south of the moun­tain, and has flights from Taipei, Seoul, and do­mes­tic cities in­clud­ing Bei­jing, Shang­hai and Guilin. If you don't want to walk up the moun­tain, a ca­ble­car ride is RMB80.

STAY

Ho­tels on the moun­tain are over­priced but the only op­tion if you want to see sun­rise and sun­set. The Bei­hai (bei­hai­ho­tel huang­shan.com; dou­bles from RMB1,000) and Xi­hai (xi­hai­ho­tel huang­shan.com; dou­bles from RMB1,000) of­fer the most com­forts. If sun­rise views aren't a pri­or­ity, Banyan Tree Huang­shan (banyantree.com; dou­bles from RMB3,500) has el­e­gant mod­ern­meets-tra­di­tional vil­las and suites nes­tled in the moun­tains about 30 min­utes away from the na­tional park. The Crowne Plaza Huang­shan Yuchen (ihg.com; dou­bles from RMB650) is the best high-end op­tion in Huang­shan City.

EAT

The ho­tels on the moun­tain serve pretty unin­spir­ing Chi­nese fare, but you're not on Huang­shan for a culi­nary ex­pe­ri­ence. Af­ter trekking, head to Huang­shan City for din­ner at Mei

Shi Ren Jia (247

Old St., Tunxi; 86559/251-2222; mains from RMB30), noted for its au­then­tic

Hui cui­sine.

DO

Nim­ble hik­ers can do a full day's trek up and down the moun­tain, climb­ing up the West­ern Steps, sight­see­ing along the top trails, and de­scend­ing from the East­ern Steps, but this will make for a long and tir­ing day. Bet­ter to spend a night on top. The Xi­hai Grand Canyon area is a three-hour steep de­scent, but worth it for the unique rock for­ma­tions and scenery. — D.S.

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