4WDrive - - Install -

1) Our hous­ing came stripped down for us al­ready. If yours does not, take the time to mea­sure and record any shims as you blow the unit apart and are left with just the bare pump­kin. Mark the bear­ing caps for lo­ca­tion and ori­en­ta­tion if not done so al­ready.

2) We de­cided to start by in­stalling the cen­tre sec­tion com­po­nents. In our ex­pe­ri­ence, hav­ing a car­rier in the pump­kin helps keep the hous­ing straight when weld­ing on a truss. The Jantz in­struc­tions are bro­ken down well, with many tips for the process such as notch­ing out the bear­ing pock­ets as seen here to help pop the pin­ion bear­ings out dur­ing setup.

3) Don’t con­cern your­self with the size of the gear on the end but take a peek at the added beef of the pin­ion shaft it­self on the JK piece (left). Larger splines, bear­ing mount­ing sur­face and over­all di­am­e­ter all make this axle so much stronger.

4) Jantz sup­plied shims go un­der the pin­ion head bear­ing for proper gear mesh depth. If you are at the point of in­stalling your own gears, go get your­self a cheap shop press and put the ham­mer away.

5) Check for any clear­ance is­sues with the new pin­ion in place as some grind­ing may be re­quired. We were in luck and ev­ery­thing fit well.

6) The Yukon ring gear is dou­ble drilled for both 1/2” and 7/16” bolts. We de­cided to keep our “big­ger is bet­ter” mantra and drilled the ARB air locker mount­ing holes out to the larger 1/2” size us­ing a 1/2” bit and a steady work sur­face.

7) Be­fore bolt­ing on the ring gear, we took a file to the mount­ing sur­face to take away any burrs. Take a sharpie and draw around the en­tire sur­face to check for any high or low spots.

8) With the ring gear bolted up, we switched over to ARB’s in­stal­la­tion in­struc­tions and used the ARB sup­plied bear­ings. Shims for

the ARB are un­like those of a stan­dard Dana setup as they go on the out­side of the car­rier bear­ings. Our trick is to place the left side shims and air line at­tach­ment in first, and then tap in the right-side shims so as not to ac­ci­den­tally hit the air line.

9) As with any gear setup, check­ing the pat­tern and mak­ing shim ad­just­ments is crit­i­cal to bear­ing life, noise, and gear wear. We found the in­stal­la­tion in­struc­tions sup­plied with the Yukon gears to be very thor­ough and com­plete with di­a­grams. Get­ting this pat­tern took us six or so tries.

10) Once the gear pat­tern is cor­rect, it’s time to set pin­ion bear­ing back­lash. The JK setup typ­i­cally uses a crush sleeve. We are not fans of the evil sleeve and pre­fer us­ing shims and a spacer, which are sup­plied by Jantz, as they hate them as well!

11) Hav­ing the proper tools to mea­sure bear­ing preload is crit­i­cal. Our dial in­di­ca­tion torque meter (not wrench) was not cheap, but it is a crit­i­cal pur­chase. No, you can’t bor­row ours.

12) ARB’s in­struc­tions out­line where to drill and tap a hole for the air line to exit the hous­ing. With the ring, pin­ion and locker setup com­plete, rout­ing the air line is the last step. Be­fore fi­nal assem­bly, clean the hous­ing out of any metal pieces that may have snuck in.

13)Time for new in­ner axle seals. With the older rear Dana 44’s, there is an in­ner seal that re­sides in the hous­ing, and an outer seat that rides on the axle shaft. This keeps oil in the dif­fer­en­tial, and grease on the wheel bear­ing. Don’t for­get this in­ner seal and make sure to drive it in squarely. We had to use a hole saw to get the right fit.

14) It is easy to see the dif­fer­ence in shaft ex­ten­sion be­tween the fac­tory Scout unit (left) and the new Yukon 35 spine shaft (right).

15) Don’t for­get the shaft re­tainer (black) be­fore press­ing the bear­ing on. With us omit­ting the drum brakes, we needed to add a shim that is the same thick­ness as the back­ing plate. This is to en­sure that the proper preload is placed in the bear­ings. We just cut the old back­ing plate down to the same size as the shaft re­tainer.

16) The shafts are bolted in and it’s time to work on the TMR JK truss. The laser cut pieces fit to­gether like Lego. Some grind­ing and tweak­ing was re­quired be­cause this Dana 44 hous­ing is ob­vi­ously not the same as a JK hous­ing.

17) At the same time the truss was be­ing SLOWLY welded on, the leaf spring mounts were as­sem­bled and tacked into place.

18) As men­tioned, take your time weld­ing this all to­gether. We did not weld to the cast steel (not cast iron) hous­ing. We feel that if you are go­ing to be weld­ing to the cen­tre sec­tion, a proper axle jig should be used to al­le­vi­ate any pos­si­ble warp­ing. Now would have been a good time to clean up the shop…

19) With ev­ery­thing welded and cooled, check your gear pat­tern and back­lash again. Ours was still within spec so we bolted up the mon­strous TMR cover.

20) The junk­yard Nissan calipers got a rat­tle can re­build, some new seals in­stalled, and pads bolted in. The new Zuk ro­tors are cheap and fit like a glove.

21) With Won­der Woman threat­en­ing us with the whip, we can­not tell a lie; this axle turned out GREAT and the last step be­fore bolt­ing it in was paint. We spent many late nights in the shop build­ing the axle at home piece by piece as money and time would al­low, and we’re con­fi­dent it will stand up to the bru­tal pun­ish­ment we have in mind.

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