Joanne Kates re­views the marvel­lous mashups at new down­town hot spot Doma

Doma hits the nail on the head with its French-in­flected Korean food

Bayview Post - - Contents - 50C Clin­ton St. 416-551-1550 do­ma­

OWNER: Chef-owner Paul Kim

SCENE: The resto at­tracts a mélange of din­ers, blend­ing older with younger, ea­ger food­ies and kids from the ’hood

SOUND: Tunes will change de­pend­ing on the mood of the day (so aim for a sunny day, un­less you wanna be glum)

POP­U­LAR DISHES: Cur­rent hits are the grilled oc­to­pus and uh­sun man­doo

DRINKS: Or­der up Kore­an­in­flu­enced cock­tails, wine or beer from lo­cal brew­eries PRICE: $90 for two ($130 for tast­ing menu for two)

OPEN: Tues. to Thurs., 5:30 to 10:30 p.m.; Fri. to Sat. 5:30 to 11 p.m. RESERVATIONS: Book by phone, email or through OpenTable Marvel­lous mashups are all over the Toronto food scene, but none of the oth­ers are quite so ex­cit­ing as Doma. Who could have thought up French-in­flected Korean food? To my palate it’s a bit of an un­likely mar­riage, given the re­liance of Korean food on heat and kim­chi, as against France’s more nu­anced gas­tro­nomic min­uet.

But Doma hits the nail on the head. They start with an amuse­bouche — a tiny pot of vichys­soise that’s a cross be­tween mousse and soup, all air and savour.

Doma lives in the funky lit­tle space just up from Col­lege on Clin­ton, where once was Aca­dia and then Red Sauce. It’s now a pretty plain white room, with lit­tle in the way of glitz or glam­our. Same self-con­scious down­scale mind­set ap­plies to the servers, whose modus operandi seems to be that less is more. With such icon­o­clas­tic food, one does want to know what’s in it. As each course is set down, I ask these ques­tions to the sev­eral servers. Do they think they’re cool for not an­swer­ing?

If the food were not so fab­u­lous, I might not want to go there. But I do. Again and again and again. Even the ap­par­ently pedes­trian turns scin­til­lat­ing here. Wal­dorf salad, the ho-hum

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