Joanne Kates re­views Kiin on Ade­laide and dis­cov­ers next-level Thai cui­sine

At their new res­tau­rant, T.O.’s cham­pi­ons of Thai food de­liver elab­o­rate and pic­to­rial fare

Bayview Post - - Contents -

I have been to Thai­land three times now. They say an army marches on its stom­ach, and this I, as a fre­quent trav­eller, can con­firm.

I learned to love the fra­grance of lemon­grass, the sweet ex­otic tang of Thai basil, the salty back story of fish sauce against the sweet of palm sugar, all with the crunch of toasted peanuts. It’s a cui­sine of great com­plex­ity, of big flavours in care­ful bal­ance. If you can get past the chilies.

Chef Nuit Reg­u­lar and her hus­band Jeff have made a de­li­cious niche in Toronto ca­ter­ing to us, the not-so-hot-chili peo­ple. And now Kiin, their fourth res­tau­rant (af­ter Pai, Sukhothai and Sabai Sabai), a pale and lovely room.

Kiin’s fo­cus is royal Thai cook­ing, al­though they do other Thai food as well. Royal cook­ing is what hap­pens when nor­mal Thai cook­ing be­comes more painstak­ing and de­tailed, fruit and veg de­seeded, fish deboned, pre­sen­ta­tions get pic­to­rial and elab­o­rate. Fit for a king.

The sig­na­ture app is roy Thai, a jewel of a plat­ter with four small bites, each pret­tier than its neigh­bour: mha hor is sweet pick­led turnip carved into a pineap­ple flower and stuffed with sa­vory/sweet co­conut and peanut

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