Joanne Kates reviews Kiin on Adelaide and discovers next-level Thai cuisine
At their new restaurant, T.O.’s champions of Thai food deliver elaborate and pictorial fare
I have been to Thailand three times now. They say an army marches on its stomach, and this I, as a frequent traveller, can confirm.
I learned to love the fragrance of lemongrass, the sweet exotic tang of Thai basil, the salty back story of fish sauce against the sweet of palm sugar, all with the crunch of toasted peanuts. It’s a cuisine of great complexity, of big flavours in careful balance. If you can get past the chilies.
Chef Nuit Regular and her husband Jeff have made a delicious niche in Toronto catering to us, the not-so-hot-chili people. And now Kiin, their fourth restaurant (after Pai, Sukhothai and Sabai Sabai), a pale and lovely room.
Kiin’s focus is royal Thai cooking, although they do other Thai food as well. Royal cooking is what happens when normal Thai cooking becomes more painstaking and detailed, fruit and veg deseeded, fish deboned, presentations get pictorial and elaborate. Fit for a king.
The signature app is roy Thai, a jewel of a platter with four small bites, each prettier than its neighbour: mha hor is sweet pickled turnip carved into a pineapple flower and stuffed with savory/sweet coconut and peanut