FOOD

Bayview Post - - Food - JOANNE KATES

de­bauch­ery) did not buy a din­ner even vaguely fit for an aris­to­crat.

The sole won­der­ful pre-dessert item we ate was ri­cotta porcini ravi­oli — deep com­plex savour — topped with rich braised short rib. Our other app — wagyu beef carpac­cio — was splen­didly mar­bled but­tery beef, but its top­ping — truf­fle crumb — re­minded me of what comes out of a ra­men spice packet on a lazy day. I ask the waiter how they make it. He says they don’t; they buy it; and you can get it at a su­per­mar­ket.

Then there’s the fix­ings. The $14 fries are big, fat and mealy. They come with meh house-made ketchup. I’d pre­fer Heinz. As­para­gus with lemon beurre blanc also meh. Too lit­tle beurre blanc, not but­tery enough. Same mouth feel to Béar­naise sauce — not but­tery enough.

Also less than ex­cit­ing is the $64 Aus­tralian lamb rack. I find the maple ad­di­tion to the pis­ta­chio crust off-puttingly sweet, and my feel­ings about Aus­tralian lamb can be summed up in one word: Loblaws.

But steak is re­ally the point here. Our 18 oz. $90 PEI strip loin is per­fectly cooked, warm ruby heart and strong char. But I don’t love it. The waiter warned us that they sea­son their steaks less than other steak houses, and he prof­fered three dif­fer­ent bou­tique salts. But large crys­tal fancy shmancy salt doesn’t sea­son a steak.

It’s a great show, from drinks to dessert. The $20 old fash­ioned (a.k.a. Once Upon a Time) comes cov­ered in a bell jar, wreathed in smoke that es­capes when they lift the jar. Shazam! The prof­ite­role dessert ar­rives, a shiny dark choco­late dome. The waiter pours warm salted caramel sauce over it, and the choco­late melts into a river, ex­pos­ing house-made hazel­nut ice cream (one of the best things they do) topped with choux pas­try.

All show, no go. Per­haps per­fectly in the tra­di­tion of Sir Henry. Joanne Kates trained at the Ecole Cor­don Bleu de Cui­sine in Paris. She has writ­ten ar­ti­cles for nu­mer­ous pub­li­ca­tions, in­clud­ing the New York Times, Ma­clean’s and Chate­laine.

lo­cated at 394 Bloor St. W., re­ceived a con­di­tional pass fol­low­ing a Jan. 9 in­spec­tion. Of seven in­frac­tions ob­served, three were con­sid­ered mi­nor, three sig­nif­i­cant and one cru­cial in sever­ity. It passed a Jan. 17 rein­spec­tion.

Chicken, My My Kat­suya, Forno Cul­tura,

Clock­wise from top: Prince over­sees the oak room, chilled jumbo prawns, and one of the many steak op­tions Cibo,

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