One of the most pop­u­lar culi­nary ex­pe­di­tions in the Thai cap­i­tal is to go to Chi­na­town for seafood, and lo­cals will tell you that there are two op­tions: the restau­rant with green uni­forms and another with yel­low uni­forms. We chose the for­mer, which is T&K. Fill­ing a nar­row four-story build­ing, this place first im­presses with all the ac­tiv­ity at the en­trance, as fresh seafood is sorted and or­der slips are trans­ported up and down var­i­ous floors along wires. The stair­ways are nar­row and so was our ta­ble, but this is not the place for a peace­ful am­bi­ence. You come here for cheap and cheery fresh catches of the day. The oys­ter Thai omelet (THB100/$3) was full of very plump and sweet mol­lusks, but the stir-fried meat crab with black pep­per (THB300/$10 per small por­tion) was only so-so. We did en­joy the steamed prawns in fresh milk (THB200/$6.20 for a small por­tion) – it took some get­ting used to, but the crus­taceans were fla­vor­ful and the milk gave it a smooth tex­ture. Open 4:30 PM – 2:00 AM; 49-51 Soi Phadung Dao, Chi­na­town; tel +66 2 223 4519.

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