A branch of one of the most es­tab­lished din­ing groups of Tai­wan, this restau­rant has some­thing that its sis­ter out­lets don’t have: a cov­etable lo­ca­tion on the 85th floor of Taipei 101. From its ad­dress, one would pre­sume it can be ac­cessed via the build­ing’s mall, but you have to en­ter the of­fice tower lobby, take an es­ca­la­tor to reach the re­cep­tion desk, where – after con­firm­ing your book­ing with the maitre d’– you take an el­e­va­tor to the 60th floor to change to another el­e­va­tor for the restau­rant. There are sev­eral eater­ies on the same floor, too, so be ready to en­counter crowds of din­ers on your way up. All is for­given on ar­rival, as the in­te­rior of the restau­rant is very el­e­gant, and the view is spec­tac­u­lar. Our deep-fried baby oys­ters with basil (NT320/$10.70) were per­fectly crusty on the out­side and full of fla­vor inside, while the wok-seared chicken with basil and ginger in clay­pot (NT680/$22.90) was hearty and with very ten­der meat. The min­i­mum charge per head is rather high, how­ever, at NT880 ($29.60) for lunch, NT1,280 ($43.10) for din­ner and NT1,800 ($60.60) for a win­dow-side ta­ble. BT

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