4 Hours In …


Business Traveler (USA) - - INSIDE EVERY ISSUE - By Jenny Southan


Once a Vik­ing fish­ing set­tle­ment, Copenhagen is now home to 1.2 mil­lion peo­ple. Dis­cover the coun­try’s roots at the Na­tional Mu­seum near the Tivoli Gar­dens. Pri­or­i­tize the Dan­ish Pre­his­tory col­lec­tion – there are cases crammed with Vik­ing trea­sure and weapons, as well as leath­ery bod­ies found pre­served in peat bogs, teeth, jew­elry and all.

High­lights in­clude a dis­play of huge curly Nordic lur horns used in Bronze Age rit­u­als, a creepy set of cop­per-col­ored plaits of hu­man hair from 350BC (cut off as a sac­ri­fice to the gods), and the gi­ant sil­ver Gun­de­strup Caul­dron found in a swamp in Jut­land. It dates back to 150BC and mys­te­ri­ously de­picts ex­otic an­i­mals un­known to this part of the world.

Open Tues-Sun 10:00 AM – 5:00 PM, ad­mis­sion is free. Ny Vester­gade 10; en.nat­mus.dk



Sep­a­rated from Swe­den by the Ore­sund (or Sound), a two-and-ahalf-mile-wide watery strait, the flat city in­cor­po­rates var­i­ous nat­u­ral and man­made is­lands con­nected by bridges. Take the Knip­pels­bro to pretty Chris­tian­shavn, a peace­ful neigh­bor­hood where the ar­chi­tec­ture soft­ens to quaint cob­bled streets and brick houses, and there are canals with boats moored along them.

It’s a good 20-minute walk to Pa­per Is­land but ar­riv­ing with an ap­petite is a must. Fol­low the signs to Copenhagen Street Food, which launched a year ago and is lo­cated in two re­pur­posed ware­houses fac­ing the Royal Dan­ish Play­house on the other side of the wa­ter. In­side, dozens of shacks and trucks sell food from around the world – from Turk­ish shawarma and Colom­bian veg­gie burgers to Chi­nese crispy duck and Mex­i­can tacos (from $7.50 to $11 a plate).

There’s also a hand­ful of bars, a cof­fee car­a­van and, at night, lively mu­sic and bingo ses­sions for 300 peo­ple.

Open daily 12:00 PM – 10:00 PM in spring/sum­mer (later for drinks). Ware­house 7/8, Tran­gravsvej 14; copen­hagen­street­food.dk/en



Ten min­utes down the road is an an­ar­chis­tic cor­ner of the city known as Free­town Chris­tia­nia. This self­gov­ern­ing hippy en­clave was set up by squat­ters in the early 1970s, and has since be­come an au­ton­o­mous neigh­bor­hood of al­most 1,000 free-spir­ited peo­ple who live in wood cab­ins among the trees. (As there is no pri­vate own­er­ship, res­i­dents have to ap­ply for a place to live and cars are com­mu­nally shared.)

You will spot the bound­aries of the com­mu­nity im­me­di­ately, as walls and build­ings are cov­ered in street art.You are welcome to wan­der around – there are cafés, a mar­ket selling smok­ing para­pher­na­lia and In­dian cloth­ing, art gal­leries, ce­ramic stu­dios, and even a women-only black­smiths stocked with rus­tic house wares.

The most sur­pris­ing dis­cov­ery is the “Green Light Zone,”where stalls on Pusher Street cov­ered in cam­ou­flage net­ting hide en­tre­pre­neur­ial ven­dors who sell mar­i­juana. Queues of peo­ple line up to buy bags of the stuff, which they roll into fat joints and sit around smok­ing. The air is thick with pun­gent fumes so you may or may not want to hang around. The sale of weed is tol­er­ated here, but not in Copenhagen it­self. Hard drugs, how­ever, are banned com­pletely.




Head back over the bridge to­wards the main square of Kon­gens Ny­torv (most of it is sealed off ow­ing to con­struc­tion work on a new metro sta­tion open­ing in a few years).

Dat­ing back to 1928, Skjold Burne is the old­est liquor chain in the coun­try and its flag­ship store stocks a wide se­lec­tion of lo­cal tip­ple aqua­vit (ak­vavit). About 40 per­cent al­co­hol, the spirit is clear or golden depend­ing on whether it has been aged in casks. Made from pota­toes and some­times fla­vored with spices, it is drunk neat but not too cold.

The friendly staff can talk you through the dif­fer­ent la­bels, but a good one to go for is the Ek­va­tor Ak­vavit, which comes in a stone bot­tle by way of a long jour­ney. It has been ma­tured in Madeira oak bar­rels trav­el­ing by ship across the equa­tor on the MSC Su­sanna from Copenhagen to Cape Town and back again.

Open 10:00 AM – 6:00 PM (7:00 PM Fri, 4:00 PM Sat, closed Sun). Oster­gade 1; skjold-burne.dk



Opened in 2012 and con­nected to the ad­ja­cent five-star Ho­tel D’An­gleterre via a se­cret pas­sage, Balt­hazar is the city’s first and only cham­pagne bar. It’s an el­e­gant venue pop­u­lar among pro­fes­sion­als for af­ter-work drinks, with moody light­ing and a floor-to-ceil­ing glass cab­i­net filled with vintage Dom Pérignon.

With 160 brands avail­able – from Krug to Cristal – there’s plenty to spend your money on. If you only have time for a quick prepran­dial, fizz by the glass costs Kr 135380 ($20-$58).

Open Wed-Sat 4:00 PM – 2:00 AM. Ny Oster­gade 6; balt­haz­arcph.dk/en vis­it­copen­hagen.com BT





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