ON THE WATER­FRONT

Canada’s 100 Best - - Editor’s Letter -

Nes­tled snugly on the shore just out­side the cen­tre of Tofino, within walk­ing dis­tance of pop­u­lar cof­fee and surf shops, the newly ren­o­vated Tofino Re­sort and Ma­rina opened this sum­mer, bring­ing a glit­ter­ing new pro­file—and an out­stand­ing lo­cal in­gre­di­ent fo­cused restau­rant and pub—to the town. The old ma­rina had grown a bit long in the tooth over the past decade or so, though it was a pop­u­lar if de­crepit wa­ter­ing hole for lo­cals. (Some of who are not too pleased with the gen­tri­fi­ca­tion.) Mul­ti­ple mil­lions—in­vested by Van­cou­ver Is­land busi­ness­man An­drew Purdey, along with for­mer NHL hockey play­ers Wil­lie Mitchell and Dan Hamhuis—went into the ex­pan­sion. The re­sort now boasts a 62-room lux­ury guest rooms, mul­ti­ple berths for pass­ing yachts and a new ad­ven­ture cen­tre pro­vid­ing the usual wa­ter-based ex­pe­ri­ences (whale-watch­ing, div­ing, etc.). Another big change: a high-pow­ered food and bev­er­age pro­gram. With for­mer stints at West (un­der then-ex­ec­u­tive chef David Hawksworth) and the two-Miche­lin-starred Ho­tel Le Ne­gresco in Nice, chef Paul Mo­ran leads the re­sort’s 1909 Kitchen and its re­newed fo­cus on in­gre­di­en­tled lo­cal cui­sine. Com­ing from a fam­ily of avid for­agers ( please see p. 65) in the Okana­gan, Mo­ran is an ob­ses­sive gatherer (stay for a few days, and you’ll run into him walk­ing back to the ma­rina with arms full of var­i­ous found ed­i­bles). Dishes re­veal a gen­tle touch with seafood and a love of pris­tine veg­eta­bles. A sim­ple pizza stud­ded with spot prawns (in sea­son, of course) and cooked in a wood-burn­ing oven is an ir­re­sistible treat (we ate four over the course of a cou­ple of days). Wines from the prov­ince and a short list of in­trigu­ing cock­tails, ac­cented with more for­aged things, round out an am­bi­tious new player on Tofino’s culi­nary team. —D.S. TO­fiNORESORTANDMARINA.COM

TOFINO RE­SORT AND MA­RINA

GOOSENECK BARNACLES

CHEF PAUL MO­RAN 1909 KITCHEN

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