When my daughter was one, we wanted to get some raw milk for her, which of course is impossible to obtain and in many ways illegal. So we bought a cow from an Amish farmer in the Kawarthas. It was a Canadienne, which has roots in Charlevoix and is the only breed of dairy cow native to North America. It was only ever fed on grass and we got her when she was four. Eventually the farmer who was taking care of it for us wasn’t able to continue, so we had to slaughter her when she was six. So Snackies the Cow went on the menu at Montgomery’s last fall. The smell of grass in the car when we brought her to the restaurant was amazing. We used the tender cuts immediately. We aged the hips seven months and made a sort of bresaola. We rubbed the ribeyes in their own fat and aged them nine months, and served small pieces to guests. Just this fall we’ve used up the last of her—we’d cured the scraps into tough little pieces for shaving over dishes, like our zucchini with lovage butter and melted “1608” cheese from Laiterie Charlevoix, which is also made from Canadiennes.
DAIRY COW SAUSAGE WITH POMME PURÉE AND GREENS
PAUL MORAN WITH FRESHLY FORAGED TOFINO CHANTERELLES