Guy Rawl­ings

MONT­GOMERY’S, TORONTO

Canada’s 100 Best - - Column -

When my daugh­ter was one, we wanted to get some raw milk for her, which of course is im­pos­si­ble to ob­tain and in many ways il­le­gal. So we bought a cow from an Amish farmer in the Kawarthas. It was a Cana­di­enne, which has roots in Charlevoix and is the only breed of dairy cow na­tive to North Amer­ica. It was only ever fed on grass and we got her when she was four. Even­tu­ally the farmer who was tak­ing care of it for us wasn’t able to con­tinue, so we had to slaugh­ter her when she was six. So Snack­ies the Cow went on the menu at Mont­gomery’s last fall. The smell of grass in the car when we brought her to the restau­rant was amaz­ing. We used the ten­der cuts im­me­di­ately. We aged the hips seven months and made a sort of bre­saola. We rubbed the ribeyes in their own fat and aged them nine months, and served small pieces to guests. Just this fall we’ve used up the last of her—we’d cured the scraps into tough lit­tle pieces for shav­ing over dishes, like our zuc­chini with lo­vage but­ter and melted “1608” cheese from Lai­terie Charlevoix, which is also made from Cana­di­ennes.

DAIRY COW SAUSAGE WITH POMME PURÉE AND GREENS

PAUL MO­RAN WITH FRESHLY FOR­AGED TOFINO CHANTERELLES

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