We’ve ex­cerpted three cre­ative projects from Gar­den Made, in­clud­ing the ma­te­ri­als and in­struc­tions for mak­ing them your­self.

Canadian Gardening Annual 2016 - - Ex­cerpt - Text & pho­tog­ra­phy STEPHANIE ROSE


· Plas­tic pic­ture frame in any di­men­sion you like as long as the frame it­self is at least 2" wide · 1" x 3" x 6' cedar board · Wire cut­ters · One piece of ¼" hard­ware mesh fenc­ing · Sta­ple gun · Four ½" cor­ner braces; wood screws as fol­lows: eight #6 screws ½" long; four #6 screws 1" long · Mitre saw, cir­cu­lar saw, hand saw or ta­ble saw · One piece of ¼"-thick ply­wood · Drill and drill bits or screw­driver · Pic­ture-hang­ing hard­ware rated for at least 15 pounds of hang­ing weight · Soil­less con­tainer mix · Mixed suc­cu­lents in a va­ri­ety of sizes


1. DE­TER­MINE THE SIZE of your planter box based on the size of the pic­ture frame. The in­side di­men­sions of the planter box should be half an inch wider and longer than the in­side di­men­sions of the frame. 2. BUILD A BOX FRAME us­ing the cedar board. 3. USE THE WIRE CUT­TERS to cut the hard­ware mesh to one-quar­ter inch smaller than the out­side di­men­sions of the box frame. Lay the hard­ware mesh on top of the box frame and at­tach it us­ing the sta­ple gun. 4. PLACE THE PIC­TURE FRAME on top of the box frame. Turn the box up­side down and place the cor­ner braces at the cen­tre of each of its sides. At­tach the cor­ner braces to the back of the frame and the sides of the box us­ing the ½" wood screws. 5. US­ING THE SAW, cut the ply­wood to match the out­side di­men­sions of the box frame. Us­ing a drill or screw­driver and the 1" wood screws, at­tach the ply­wood to the bot­tom of the box. 6. CHOOSE WHICH WAY you’ll ori­ent the frame and mount the pic­ture­hang­ing hard­ware. 7. FILL THE BOX WITH THE SOIL­LESS CON­TAINER MIX by scoop­ing in the soil and shak­ing the box to set­tle it down. Wa­ter the box and leave it for an hour for the soil to set­tle and com­pact. Top up with more soil and wa­ter again un­til it is quite full and the base of the soil is mod­er­ately firm. 8. USE THE WIRE CUT­TERS to snip holes in the mesh that are large enough for the suc­cu­lents’ mini root balls to fit in. Dig holes in the soil and tuck the roots into them. Fill soil around the roots and gen­tly press down to se­cure the plants in place. Con­tinue mak­ing holes for the plants and add the cut­tings to fill in your de­sign. 9. SET THE FIN­ISHED PLANTER in a sunny spot and wa­ter it. Keep the soil slightly damp for four to six weeks as the plants root into place. Gen­tly tug the suc­cu­lents to feel if the plants give re­sis­tance and are there­fore rooted and ready to be mounted.

suc­cu­lent pic­ture gar­den Echev­e­ria, se­dum and sem­per­vivum cul­ti­vars

are shown here.

step 8

step 8

step 9

step 7

step 3

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