Vik­tor & Rolf’s edgy new jew­ellery.

Vik­tor & Rolf turn their at­ten­tion to pretty, sparkly things.

Elle (Canada) - - News - By Clara Young

vik­tor Horsting and Rolf Sno­eren of Vik­tor & Rolf are the Gil­bert and Sul­li­van of fash­ion. Or at least they were a decade ago, when their ready-to-wear shows had all the the­atri­cal verve of a full-fledged operetta. But whether the pair were tap danc­ing down the run­way in top hats or send­ing out a sin­gle model wear­ing nine looks lay­ered one on top of the other, their clothes and ac­ces­sories were al­ways im­pec­ca­ble, even clas­sic. That has al­ways been the para­dox of this Dutch duo: They’re avant-garde yet ac­ces­si­ble. Weird yet wear­able.

“What peo­ple love, what they write about in a magazine,” be­gins Sno­eren—“is not what they buy,” fin­ishes Horsting. Since about 2000, the de­sign­ers have em­braced the art-ver­sus­com­merce co­nun­drum: They took up ready-towear, left the art-and-mu­seum cir­cuit and struck deals with mega-brands such as H&M and L’Oréal. They’ve wooed the main­stream, but, like Si­na­tra, they’ve done it their way.

The duo’s lat­est col­lab is with Swarovski, for whom they’ve cre­ated a limited-edi­tion cap­sule col­lec­tion called Vel­vet Rock. The last time Swarovski asked Horsting and Sno­eren to create a col­lec­tion, the de­sign­ers had the crys­tals painted matte black. It’s not the most pro­mo­tional thing one can do to a prod­uct, yet Swarovski has come back for more. This time, Horsting and Sno­eren thought up a line of pleas­ingly hefty cuffs, ear­rings, rings and a choker en­crusted with Swarovski crys­tals that have been “flocked”: com­pletely cov­ered with tiny glued-on vel­vet bris­tles in grey and black— the de­sign­ers’ favourite non-colours. “We had to send the sam­ples back sev­eral times,” says Sno­eren. “We wanted grey mélange—not pur­plish, green­ish or bluish grey. We said, ‘Please, no colour.’” A few crys­tals here and there es­caped the flock­ing; they were left bare and sparkling, cre­at­ing a mys­te­ri­ous-code effect. The pair as­sure me, how­ever, that there is no se­cret mes­sage in the jew­ellery. “It was a con­cep­tual idea we found in­ter­est­ing,” says Horsting. “You have some­thing pre­cious and sparkling and then you cover it.” ■

Crys­tal and vel­vet-coat­ed­crys­tal jew­ellery from the Ate­lier Swarovski by Vik­tor & Rolf col­lec­tion (swarovski. com): Small ring ($335); triple cuff ($735); chan­de­lier ear­rings ($485); chan­de­lier choker ($1,550)

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