NUM­BER CRUNCH­ING

WISE WAYS TO AP­PROACH YOUR SKIN­CARE REG­I­MEN. BY VANESSA CRAFT

Elle (Canada) - - Anniversary -

We asked nu­merol­o­gist Glynis McCants (num­ber­slady.com) to do a read­ing on our name. ELLE 5335 CANADA 315141 MAGAZ INE 41718955

SUN­SCREEN IS BAE Daily sun pro­tec­tion is top pri­or­ity. The Cana­dian Der­ma­tol­ogy As­so­ci­a­tion rec­om­mends a min­i­mum of SPF 30 in a broad-spec­trum for­mula to pro­tect skin from both UVB (rays that burn and cause can­cer) and UVA (rays that age skin and cause can­cer). Sun dam­age typ­i­cally shows up a decade af­ter ex­po­sure. You have been warned. EX­ER­CISE WILL FIX YOUR FACE What­ever your rea­son for work­ing out—a strong heart, 10K train­ing or to win that Ri­hanna look-alike con­test—ex­er­cise brings an im­por­tant added ben­e­fit: It changes skin’s com­po­si­tion. Re­search from McMaster Univer­sity in On­tario has shown that peo­ple who take part in en­durance ex­er­cise have markedly health­ier and thicker skin than those who don’t. BE TECH TAR­GETED The se­cret to smart derm-of­fice treat­ments is to use them in their “ideal func­tion range,” says Dr. Cory Torg­er­son, a der­ma­tol­o­gist and fa­cial plas­tic sur­geon in Toronto. So, if you are seek­ing to im­prove your skin’s tex­ture and clar­ity, a laser—which resur­faces and helps stim­u­late col­la­gen—is best. Mi­cro­der­mabra­sion, which buffs away the skin’s sur­face us­ing mi­cro-grains, “has been around for­ever but is great as a main­te­nance fa­cial,” he says. Lasers or Ther­mage (a non-in­va­sive ra­dio-fre­quency treat­ment), how­ever, can only tar­get the thick­ness of the skin. “They can stim­u­late col­la­gen, help with finer wrinkles and make skin look fresher, but they can’t truly lift,” says Torg­er­son. “That is surgery’s sweet spot.”

KNOW THY SKIN FAM­ILY Don’t dis­count ge­net­ics, ad­vises Torg­er­son. “Those with thin, fair skin show wrinkles caused by mus­cle move­ment the ear­li­est,” he says. “Those with dark skin show wrinkles later, but they can have un­even tone or hy­per­pig­men­ta­tion in­stead.” That’s be­cause skin with lots of melanin re­acts to in­flam­ma­tion caused by in­jury by pro­duc­ing more pig­ment in an ef­fort to pro­tect it­self. ZZZ PLEASE Col­la­gen pro­duc­tion ac­cel­er­ates while you sleep. If you don’t get more than a few hours, not enough col­la­gen is pro­duced to re­place that which has been bro­ken down by the day’s in­flam­ma­tion. (In­flam­ma­tion con­trib­utes to break­outs and in­creased skin sen­si­tiv­ity.) GET LIT Tests have shown that the hu­man eye is drawn to skin dis­col­orations, like sun spots, be­fore wrinkles. Look for prod­ucts with AHAs (al­pha-hy­droxy acids), which help to give skin a smoother sur­face that bet­ter re­flects light, or vi­ta­min C, which light­ens dis­col­orations. AC­CEPT THE TIM­ING OF EVENTS When you are in your 20s, skin is­sues may arise due to life­style (par­ties, al­co­hol...you know the drill); your fo­cus should be on preven­tion (i.e., reg­u­lar use of sun­screen). By the time you are in your 40s, ma­jor changes are at work. “This is when skin re­ally shows the ef­fects of chronic sun ex­po­sure, grav­ity and fa­cial move­ment,” says Dr. Jaggi Rao, a derm in Ed­mon­ton. “Skin’s elas­tic­ity de­creases, and col­la­gen isn’t as ro­bust.” Your fo­cus should be on re­pair. DERMS LOVE RETINOL; YOU SHOULD TOO Retinol (a form of vi­ta­min A, avail­able both over the counter and with a pre­scrip­tion) is a long-time derm fave. “It’s safe and ef­fec­tive,” says Rao, who calls it a “go-to” be­cause it re­duces sur­face pig­men­ta­tion and oil pro­duc­tion and builds col­la­gen (thereby re­duc­ing fine lines, pore size and scars). THINK IN­SIDE OUT Smart skin­care starts from within. “It’s im­por­tant to stay as healthy as pos­si­ble,” says Char­lotte Til­bury, celebrity makeup artist for stars like Ali­cia Vikan­der and Kate Moss. “I drink lemon with hot wa­ter first thing in the morn­ing and be­fore bed. It clears tox­ins and makes my skin glow. I also take lots of home­o­pathic drops and vi­ta­min C to boost my im­mune sys­tem and keep en­ergy lev­els high.” TAKE IT SLOW “So many peo­ple are look­ing for a quick fix and lose their judg­ment in the quest for eter­nal youth,” says Harold Lancer, an L.A.-based celeb-fave der­ma­tol­o­gist who ad­vises “No one but your der­ma­tol­o­gist should per­form a pro­ce­dure that pen­e­trates your skin.” If you’re think­ing about in­va­sive op­tions like cos­metic fillers or Bo­tox, be sure to go board cer­ti­fied. (Visit your pro­vin­cial col­lege of physicians and sur­geons, and use the doc­tor-search func­tion to check qual­i­fi­ca­tions.) “If some­one is push­ing a treat­ment a bit too much or push­ing you out of your com­fort zone, maybe that’s a sign,” warns Torg­er­son. “If it’s way too ex­pen­sive—or way too cheap!— maybe that’s a sign too. [And once you be­gin treat­ments], if you start to feel in any way that you don’t look like your­self, slow down and re-eval­u­ate.” h

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