Fashion (Canada) - - CONTENTS - —Lesa Han­nah

Burt’s Bees makes the move into colour cos­met­ics; a whipped mois­tur­izer with a light-as-air fin­ish; three tinted lip balms for cold win­ter weather.

hen Burt’s Bees de­cided to ex­pand into colour cos­met­ics, it looked into pur­chas­ing an ex­ist­ing nat­u­ral line. But that idea was even­tu­ally shelved be­cause the in­gre­di­ent lists of po­ten­tial con­tenders weren’t up to the brand’s stan­dards. “So we thought: ‘You know what? Let’s start from scratch,’” says Abena An­twi, lead in­no­va­tion sci­en­tist for Burt’s Bees. She and her col­leagues spent the next three years de­vel­op­ing the line but faced chal­lenges be­cause the two most dif­fi­cult prod­ucts to for­mu­late were given top pri­or­ity. “Our lead­er­ship team said, ‘If we can’t get foun­da­tion or mas­cara right, we’re not launch­ing,’” she re­calls. That’s when An­twi knew they’d need an ad­vi­sory board that in­cluded makeup artists to pro­vide feed­back on the sam­ples. To get the foun­da­tion’s tex­ture with­out us­ing sil­i­cone, they subbed in mead­ow­foam seed oil and sug­ar­cane squalane. For the mas­cara, An­twi had read com­plaints on­line about nat­u­ral mas­cara be­ing flaky, ir­ri­tat­ing and not lon­glast­ing. To ad­dress these is­sues, the team re­placed typ­i­cal in­gre­di­ents like polyurethanes, which pro­mote long wear in reg­u­lar mas­caras, with beeswax. “It took a long time, but I think we got it,” says An­twi. The seven es­sen­tials ( from $10) in the colour cos­met­ics line in­clude mat­ti­fy­ing pow­der foun­da­tions, mas­caras, blushes, eye­shad­ows, eye­lin­ers, brow pen­cils and lip­sticks—all bench­marked against their con­ven­tional coun­ter­parts. “We wanted them to be bet­ter than the other nat­u­ral ver­sions,” she says.

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