MUS­INGS

Fashion (Canada) - - The Team -

It was dark and well past the time when most sen­si­ble women em­bark on a walk in a city that is rel­a­tively un­known to them. It’s ei­ther a curse or a bless­ing, but I have a naive view that, for the most part, hu­mans are de­cent. It’s an out­look that has served me well as I’ve trav­elled to places as far-flung as Tehran, Teco­lutla and Tar­ija. In this in­stance, I had just left the Fall 2018 Prada show, which was held at the Fon­dazione Prada. It’s in an in­dus­trial area of Mi­lan that is un­apolo­get­i­cally un­cool. It’s also rather des­o­late—es­pe­cially at night. It’s set in the south­ern sec­tion of the city across from bleak rail­road tracks, and there’s noth­ing gen­tri­fied about it. In­stead of call­ing an Uber, I thought I would clock another 5,000+ steps on my Ap­ple Watch by walk­ing back to my ho­tel. At one point, as I was cross­ing the bridge over the tracks, I be­came acutely aware that I was alone and won­dered if this had been a rather un­wise de­ci­sion. Noth­ing un­set­tling hap­pened, but it later struck me as rather ironic that for this col­lec­tion, Mi­uc­cia Prada had been in­spired by the in­se­cu­rity she felt when she was walk­ing down the street one night. She said her dream “is for women to be able to go out in the street and not be afraid,” adding that she wanted her col­lec­tion—with its acid-neon shades, chic ga­loshes and in­dus­try-style bucket hats—to re­flect an ex­ag­ger­ated sense of free­dom. She wasn’t the only de­signer whose work ref­er­enced our trou­bling times. An omi­nous ten­sion was also felt at the Her­mès and Mis­soni shows. At the Mai­son Margiela cou­ture col­lec­tion, John Gal­liano swad­dled his mod­els in tulle, ob­scur­ing the clothes un­der­neath. He told Vogue.com that he was drawn to the idea of “cre­at­ing your own world within a world that’s very trou­bled at the mo­ment.” Tom Ford’s re­sponse to our dystopian mood was to bring back the OTT power suit, and Raf Si­mons at Calvin Klein armed his mod­els with bal­a­clavas and haz­mat-like jack­ets. This get-ready-for-Ar­maged­don mind­set in­spired The Draw’s theme this month, which is “The New Ar­mour.” In “Warn­ing Signs” (page 112), fash­ion fea­tures edi­tor Is­abel B. Slone ex­plores the pro­tec­tive and apose­matic style in­stincts that were on dis­play this sea­son. “De­sign­ers are on an ap­par­ent mass mis­sion to make women look as im­pos­ing as pos­si­ble,” she writes. Ac­cord­ing to beauty edi­tor Souzan Michael, another an­ti­dote to all this un­rest is rest. In her story “Sleep on It” (page 138), she chron­i­cles our ob­ses­sion with bed­time ri­tu­als and long rest­ful sleeps. “Given the cur­rent po­lit­i­cal land­scape, why wouldn’t peo­ple want to stay home and re­lax?” she writes. “When things get chaotic, it’s hu­man na­ture to re­treat.” Another way to re­build your phys­i­cal and meta­phys­i­cal ar­mour is to spend time in na­ture. We did that in a most spec­tac­u­lar fash­ion when we shot Dutch model Maartje Verhoef in an ice cave on a moun­tain­top out­side Whistler, B.C. (See “Cool” on page 120.) Al­bert Ein­stein said, “Look deep into na­ture, and then you will un­der­stand every­thing bet­ter.” Isn’t this kind of sen­si­tive in­sight the best form of ar­mour?

OUR COVER MODEL WORE A CAPE FROM MON­CLER; I OPTED FOR A PUF­FER BY QUARTZ CO. FOR MY HIKE TO WHISTLER MOUN­TAIN’S INUKSHUK.

It was an hon­our to have Isamaya Ffrench (top left) share her makeup artistry with us in “Crazy Beauty” (page 60). The Bri­tish makeup artist, who is a creative con­sul­tant with Tom Ford, is a rule-break­ing beauty cru­sader with a won­der­fully wild eye.

FOL­LOW ME ON TWIT­TER AND IN­STA­GRAM @NOREEN_FLANAGAN NOREEN FLANA­GAN, EDI­TOR-IN-CHIEF

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