New Mixed Route in Storm Creek

Gripped - - NEWS -

Canadian Mike Doyle is one of Canada’s strong­est spor t climbers. Send­ing for nearly t wo decades, Doyle’s long-ter m projects were Nec­es­sar y Evil and Just Do It The two routes were two of the ear­li­est in Amer­ica at the grade, the for mer is re­por ted to be slightly harder than the lat­ter. Doyle sent the route on his 59th at­tempt. Af­ter the climb, Doyle wrote, “Barr ing a hold break it was done. I just climbed each move slowly and de­lib­er­ately. Stop­ping to rest, shake and en­joy the mo­ment. By the time I reached the an­chors, I was al­ready rela xed again.”

his new-rout­ing spree with a route in Storm Creek with Jonny Simms. Their new route is cal led Kahve­olog y and is a 160 - me­tre M8 WI5, the val ley paral lel Stan ley Head­wall. They named their route af­ter a South Amer­i­can cof fee com­pany that la­bel led a brand of cof fee Man Yoga, af­ter Walsh and Simms’s 2013 route. Walsh said, “Un­sur­pris­ingly, the back of the cave was chossy and I had to place t wo bolts just to get into the steep climb­ing. Then t wo more bolts got placed as I blew my gear and tools out on body weight place­ments. With four bolts placed through the steep­est and hard­est pul ls, I got to a nice crack which marked the be­gin­ning of what’s prob­a­bly the best stretch of lime­stone I’ve ever dr ytooled on. Af­ter a few steep pul ls out the cave, the an­gle eases to ver tical to slightly over­hang­ing for about 30 me­tres, with nu­mer­ous bulges to ne­go­ti­ate. Per fect torquing in cracks and on in-cut holds made for real ly fun sus­tained climb­ing, with enough stances to shake out from, although never a hands free po­si­tion un­til the be­lay.”

Marc-An­dre Le­clerc started

Ian Wel­sted made a point

Above: Mike Doyle red­point­ing Nec­es­sary Evil 5.14c, Vir­gin River Gorge, Utah

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