Aid Grades

Gripped - - FEATURE -

Cour­tesy of Matt Mad­daloni, au­thor of Squamish Big Walls (2013):

“A” sig­ni­fies ham­mers are used to place gear. “C” sig­ni­fies that no ham­mers are used.

Ev­ery piece is fixed and bomber. Ex­am­ples in­clude bolt lad­ders or pulling on a piece while free climb­ing.

Ev­ery piece is bomber but needs to be placed. Ex­am­ples in­clude bomber nuts, cams or pins.

Up to two body weight pieces in a row with bomber gear be­low. There is a pos­si­bil­ity you could fall from five feet to 30 feet.

Up to five body weight pieces in a row with bomber gear be­low. There is a pos­si­bil­ity you could fall up to 50 feet.

Up to eight body weight pieces in a row with bomber gear be­low. There may be a ledge or slab be­low that you could land on or cor­ner to swing into caus­ing bro­ken bones or death. There may be an edge to run the rope over. There is a pos­si­bil­ity you could fall up to 80 feet.

More than nine body weight pieces in a row with the pos­si­bil­ity of only an an­chor hold­ing a fall. There may be a ledge or slab be­low that you could land on or cor­ner to swing into caus­ing bro­ken bones or death. There may be an edge to run the rope over. There is a pos­si­bil­ity you could fall over 80 feet plus.

A0: A1/C1: A2/C2: A3/C3: A4/C4: A5/C5:

Jon Rigg

Chris Trull

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