Fa­mous Hard Routes

Gripped - - FEATURE -

The Mandala helped bring at­ten­tion to the hard boul­der­ing in Bishop. First climbed by Chris Sharma in Fe­bru­ary 2000, it re­ceived much ac­claim and me­dia cov­er­age. Sharma did not grade it and jok­ingly said that if he had to, it would have been V16. It was re­peated by other climbers in quick suc­ces­sion within a year in this or­der: Dave Gra­ham, Jared Roth, Fred Ni­cole, Luke Parady, Ian Vick­ers and Dave Struthers at V11. The grade set­tled at soft V12 be­cause a num­ber of holds have bro­ken off from the first. In 2002, Tony Lamiche did a sit-start at V14. And in 2007, Paul Robin­son climbed it in one day with The Swarm V13 and made the first as­cent of The Mandala Di­rect at V14. In Jan­uary 2008, Lisa Rands be­came the first woman to send it.

On March 30, 2010, Paul Robin­son made the first as­cent of the high­ball Lu­cid Dream­ing. He orig­i­nally pro­posed a grade of V16, the high­est ever at the time, but he later said it was V15. The boul­der is 17 me­tres from ground to top, be­gin­ning with a steep over­hang and end­ing with a slab traverse. There are two con­sec­u­tive V12 moves near the start that both fea­ture small tech­ni­cal holds. It has only been re­peated by Daniel Woods, Alex Me­gos and Toru Naka­jima.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Canada

© PressReader. All rights reserved.