Yorkville on a bud­get

How we went bigoli but for­got no­dini

Midtown Post - - Food - by Caro­line Ak­sich & Karolyne El­la­cott

When din­ing out, it’s al­ways fas­ci­nat­ing to be seated next to peo­ple worth watch­ing. And for our Buca Yorkville (53 Scol­lard St.) ex­pe­ri­ence, we were in luck. To the right: a Gucci-decked duo, silently prod­ding and pho­tograph­ing their food. To the left: a May-De­cem­ber ro­mance wrapped in leop­ard print.

be­gin­ning

With stom­achs churn­ing, we went for carbs. In­stead of opt­ing to stretch our dough for max nosh, we should’ve or­dered with a touch of re­straint. And wine.

Buca Yorkville is known for its mar­itime bent, so it was im­per­a­tive we order seafood. A few Pis­cean apps to start: cod tongues and se­lec­tion of three sa­lumi di mare, a cheeky seafood makeover of char­cu­terie stan­dards.

The duo hit the ta­ble at the same time, forc­ing us to first at­tack the quickly cool­ing Fogo Is­land cod. The deep-fried tongues with their gelati­nous tex­ture were held in check by a sturdy bread crumb coat­ing. A hearty start.

When we turn our fo­cus to the house-cured seafood, the sidestriped shrimp mor­tadella, stud­ded with pis­ta­chio and dried clay pep­per, is our favourite of the treats.

mid­dle

And then our mis­step ar­rived: pizza caponata. On the menu, it read like sum­mer: pre­served tomato, egg­plant, zuc­chini, pine nuts and marsala-soaked raisins with a bit of pep­per­oncini kick. Scis­sor­ing the ’za re­sulted in great fun. Af­ter all, who wants to cut some­thing with a pesky knife? But alas, eye­ing the deca­dent fish plates ar­riv­ing next to us: we erred. Buca makes de­cent pie but ... raw sea bass with pros­ecco and lemon?!

the fi­nale

Luck­ily, we re­deemed our­selves with bigoli pasta. A swirl of duck egg pasta ar­rived swim­ming in duck of­fal ragu, mas­car­pone and basil. This stand­out dish was gone in a flash.

Stuffed, we spot­ted a tray of glis­ten­ing no­dini walk past us, re­al­iz­ing we’d for­got­ten to order those. Too late! We cursed our­selves for not get­ting them with our fi­nal $9. Next time we’ll knock back wine while in­hal­ing pesce, no­dini and bigoli. You live, you learn.

All of the carbs and pesce at Buca

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