THE OTHER SOUL OF SOUTH KOREA
Locals often head for getaways in the mountains and seaside of PyeongChang county
Head east out of Seoul, and the towering buildings and big-city bustle begins to melt away into a very different place. The skyscrapers and alleys filled with millions of people are replaced with rolling hills, dotted with farms — altogether more tranquil and relaxed.
Of the tourists who will flood the small Asian country next year for the 2018 Winter Olympics, some may have experienced the busy, urban culture of Seoul, but few will have seen the PyeongChang county, in the Gangwon province, which touches the East Sea (Sea of Japan) in the country’s easternmost point. It is also where most of the Olympic events will be taking place. The mountains and seaside make for a popular getaway destination with locals, but are not as well known to foreigners.
That will change next year, as an influx of Olympic spectators will arrive looking for more than world-class sporting events. Anyone in PyeongChang looking for dining, art and culture with a uniquely Korean flair won’t be disappointed.
One of the more strikingly visual attractions is Haslla Art World, south of the city of Gangneung. The park sits on a hill overlooking the East Sea, which offers a stunning view on a clear day. Throughout the park are contemporary Korean sculptures and other pieces of art, set in a garden full of meandering paths and boardwalks. Some of the displays are giant statues set against the backdrop of the ocean, while others are more traditional Korean pieces.
The style does not take itself too seriously, and the elements and esthetic combine to make for a fun, sometimes surreal experience.
The accompanying restaurant makes for a fine dining experience. The buffet featured a wide range of dishes, including some of the delightfully crunchy kimchee that the eastern region of the country is known for.
The added benefit of visiting Haslla is that the road down from Gangneung winds with the coastline, offering beautiful views of the rocky coast, accented by a high barbed-wire fence and occasional military outposts which stand as a stark reminder of the ongoing conflict between North and South Korea.
Those interested in exploring the unique cuisine Korea is known for really can’t go wrong. Of the dozens of dishes we tried in the eastern part of the country, from Korean barbecue to bulgogi (thinly sliced beef, marinated in soy sauce and other spices), all were hits. But food lovers should certainly make time for Jeong Gang Won, the Institute of Traditional Korean Cuisine, located in PyeongChang. The institute offers an opportunity to experience an immersive cooking experience. Chili and soybean pastes are made on site and stored in dozens of onggi, large earthenware vessels, in rows in front of the building, making for a stunning first impression of the site.
Guests were taken through a step-by-step instruction of how to make a chicken and vegetable stirfry, but the main event took place when the staff assembled a giant bowl of bibimbap. Order bibimbap at a restaurant, and you’ll be presented with a warm rice bowl commonly topped with vegetables, meat and an egg, and seasoned with chili pepper and soybean pastes. It is typically stirred and mashed together directly before serving. At Jeong Gang Won, massive quantities of each ingredient — the pastes made on site were placed in a giant bowl, attended by two chefs who folded everything together in an impressive performance.
The finished product was distributed to the hungry spectators, served with the stir-fry made at the beginning and a variety of sides — including, of course, kimchee.
For those extending their visit past the Closing Ceremonies next year, they may be able to catch one of the many cherry blossom festivals that take place that time of the year. The one in Gangneung, east of Pyeongchang, where a number of Olympic events will also be held, is particularly lovely. Korean cherry blossoms are some shades lighter than typical Asian cherry blossom trees, and they make for a picturesque walk along Gyeongpoho
Lake. More adventurous visitors can rent bicycles.
Those looking for some history and culture will find lots of both at Ojukheon, just west of Gyeongpoho Lake. Ojukheon is where a prominent Confucian scholar and statesman, Yi I, and his mother, Sin Saimdang, were born. The site claims to be one of the oldest wooden buildings in Korea, and is now a cultural attraction and museum.
Visitors can learn about these two important Korean historical figures — both are featured on Korean currency. They stand as models of character, and young Korean families will take their children there to instil them with the values these historical figures embody.
It is also a fascinating glimpse into how Koreans in the 16th century lived. We were fortunate enough to experience a traditional Korean dance, which took place in the courtyard.
One added benefit to visitors arriving next year is that a highspeed railway will be completed to ferry visitors between Seoul and PyeongChang in just over an hour.