Tex­tures and col­ors we can’t live with­out for fall.

NICHE Magazne - - Inside This Issue - by Jen­nifer Costanzo

The end of sum­mer is al­ways bit­ter­sweet. The long, sunny days get colder and shorter. Lucky for us, the fall 2017 run­way shows man­aged to get us ex­cited to reach for those warm lay­ers in an­tic­i­pa­tion of win­ter days. There were four quin­tes­sen­tial fall shows this year: Prada, Alexan­der Mcqueen, Dries Van Noten and Coach 1941. Although all four of these de­sign­ers are very dif­fer­ent from one an­other, there was an un­der­ly­ing theme that ran through each of their col­lec­tions and that was the mod­ern woman. There was a sense of em­pow­er­ment and self-deter­mi­na­tion within each col­lec­tion, while still re­main­ing true to fashion. These run­way shows did not only leave you want­ing the clothes off the run­way but also left you with a pow­er­ful mes­sage of fem­i­nine power.

Dries Van Noten cel­e­brated his 100th run­way show with his FW2017 col­lec­tion. In­stead of throw­ing a party, he chose to make a fem­i­nist state­ment through fashion. The col­lec­tion was an in­ter­na­tional re­union of 54 mod­els that had pre­vi­ously walked for him since 1993. He dressed each model to play up their strength, both as in­di­vid­u­als but also as a gen­der. Not only were

the mod­els a ret­ro­spec­tive of his past shows but the pieces too. There were prints from his past col­lec­tions that he remixed into mod­ern styles. The tailor­ing re­ally spoke for the col­lec­tion with well-cut pantsuits, gen­er­ous coats and jack­ets. This col­lec­tion was less about the clothes and how to wear them but rather about the woman who was wear­ing them. The fall 2017 show was in it­self a pow­er­ful women's march, rep­re­sent­ing strong, age­less and im­pres­sive women in uni­son but at the same time com­pletely in­di­vid­ual.

Sarah Burton brought a mod­ern feel to the magic of Mcqueen with her fall 2017 run­way show. The show had a mes­sage of self-de­ter­min­ing women and the pow­er­ful fe­male war­riors of Bri­tain's past. The in­spi­ra­tion be­hind this show came from a trip to Corn­wall Burton took with her team. It was an ex­er­cise in re­turn­ing to na­ture and un­der­stand­ing Bri­tish his­tory. They dis­cov­ered an­cient stone cir­cles and the pa­gan­ism of the past and specif­i­cally the “cloutie” tree. Peo­ple would tie rags and rib­bons to these trees with wishes and me­men­tos and this idea could be felt through­out the col­lec­tion. There were dresses with beaded trees, stars and suns traced in black and im­agery of me­dieval ta­pes­tries. Long trail­ing threads fell from pieces. Youth­ful­ness filled the run­way with loose hair­styles, flat, stud­ded booties and sneak­ers. Alexan­der Mcqueen could still be felt within the shapes and styles of the pieces but Burton brought youth­ful en­ergy and fe­male power to it.

Mi­uc­cia Prada has al­ways been po­lit­i­cally minded, and her fall 2017 col­lec­tion had an un­der­ly­ing mes­sage of fem­i­nist issues and the way women are per­ceived. The col­lec­tion was in­spired by the 1960's and 1970's with cord flares, patch­work leather, knits and snake­skin coats. This led to a more se­duc­tive look of cock­tail dresses adorned with crys­tals and feath­ers topped with coats ga­lore. There were prints and col­ors ev­ery­where on the run­way. Heavy fab­rics like tweed, fur and cor­duroy were per­fect for fall. Mi­uc­cia's idea of the col­lec­tion was a smart se­duc­tion: how to be a woman who is not only beau­ti­ful but also in­tel­li­gent and an im­age of a truly mod­ern woman.

Stu­art Vev­ers. Cre­ative Di­rec­tor of Coach 1941, has a deep ap­pre­ci­a­tion for every­thing Amer­i­cana, which could be seen at his fall 2017 show. He re­turned to his start­ing place as the de­signer for Coach 1941 with the shear­ling coat and his out­er­wear def­i­nitely stood out this sea­son. The look of the col­lec­tion was thor­oughly mod­ern but it had per­son­al­ity to it. Vev­ers source of in­spi­ra­tion was the Great Plains which you could be seen through the set of a bro­ken down house frame, tum­ble weeds and prairie grass. Although there were fairly fem­i­nine dresses sprin­kled with se­quins, and trimmed with lace. They were paired with cozy shear­ling lined sneak­ers, base­balls caps and mini hand­bags. The de­signer man­aged to pair fem­i­nine pieces with more mas­cu­line items, with a tomboy feel as a ma­jor ref­er­ence point. Prov­ing that pow­er­ful and strong women could be seen on the run­way at Coach 1941 as well as many oth­ers like, Prada, Alexan­der Mcqueen and Dries Van Noten.

As you look to the fall run­ways for in­spi­ra­tion for your own per­sonal wardrobe, think of how a piece is not only for fashion but also speaks to an­other level of your fem­i­nine in­di­vid­u­al­ity and strength.



COACH 1941

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