Mid­dleter­ranean

North York Post - - Food -

Bar Reyna

This Yorkvil­lian brunch boîte charms thanks to its roots as a pa­tio. Lit­er­ally. Live trees grow up through the roof, their trunks twined with lit­tle white lights. Lanterns hang from the ceil­ing, and the walls, both wooden and brick, soar. We re­cline on var­ie­gated pil­lows strewn on comfy ban­quettes and feel di­vinely deca­dent. They throw a ringer into brunch Benny-world, sit­ting it on a fat potato rosti, a layer of lightly pick­led cab­bage and long-roasted duck, with the hol­landaise built on sexy brown but­ter. Their take on croque-madame is another re­write — a fried egg on sour­dough toast spiked with lab­neh (strained yo­gurt) and smoked salmon. This is what hap­pened when bagels and cream cheese went Mid­dle Eastern.

We all know that brunch is not for calo­rie count­ing, so full speed ahead, damn the tor­pe­does, and or­der one of Reyna’s vari­a­tions of sweet frites. Go trad and have them with aïoli, or add some heat Span­ish-style with the gar­nish of manchego, crum­bled chorizo and chipo­tle aïoli. The frites them­selves are thin shreds of yummy. Bar Reyna, 158 Cum­ber­land St., 647-748-4464

This is croque-madame turned Mid­dle Eastern.

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