GO FOR GOULD
Soft vintage lighting, gleaming white tiles, burgundy-hued booths and a playlist that is Charles Aznavour–infused (RIP) transform all patrons into characters from a Godard film, not a chignon out of place (and the return of turtleneck season certainly assists the vibe). At Le Swan, anyone holding a smartphone seems like an anachronism.
The menu pairs French bistro comfort fare with diner staples: on offer are the gravydrenched hot chicken sandwich and also its sophisticated cousin, a whole Parisianstyle rotisserie chicken, quartered and served as rustic as they come: au jus with a handful of roasted veg and potatoes, alongside a basket of crusty bread ends.
Similarly, a refined diner may opt for the smoked trout rillette, whereas the comfort craving customer can order a perfect, pillowy tuna melt, all creamycentred goodness with crispy, cheesy edges, and douse it themselves with accompanying Tabasco sauce. The first Fran’s Restaurant at St. Clair West was a daily haunt of master pianist Glenn Gould.