609 King W, at Portland, 416-7037775, wvrst.com, @WVRSTbeerhall As Chippy’s is to halibut ’n’ chips and Burger’s Priest to Quarter Pounders with Cheese, owner/chef Aldo Lanzillotta’s King West cafeteria is to sausage. Construct them from naturally raised and locally sourced meat and hot dogs become haute dogs. Serve them with an impressive card of microbrews in a cavernous room that looks like a cross between a Bavarian beer hall and the Ossington subway station and watch the kids queue.
Best: South African-style boerewors sausage of densely ground beef tickled with toasted coriander seeds; traditional veal and pork bratwurst; basil-scented chicken with artichoke hearts; ground turkey ’n’ chicken mix with mild-mannered Padrón peppers; pheasant laced with apple; guinea fowl with micro-diced asparagus; smoky rabbit with tomato; bison with blueberries and maple syrup; kangaroo; all served on whole wheat buns dressed with grainy mustard and either sauerkraut, sautéed onions, peppers or jalapeños; sides of pre-salted Belgianstyle frites fried in duck fat. Avoid: any sausage served in the currywurst style, the unfathomably popular German street food that finds perfectly acceptable grilled brats on hunks o’ rustic bread smothered in vile curried ketchup. Wvrst don’t get much worse. Sunday to Wednesday 11:30 am to 11 pm, Thursday 11:30 am to midnight, Friday and Saturday 11:30 am to 1 am. Closed some holidays. Reservations accepted. Average main $8. Licensed.
Rating: NNN 3