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609 King W, at Port­land, 416-7037775, wvrst.com, @WVRST­beer­hall As Chippy’s is to hal­ibut ’n’ chips and Burger’s Priest to Quar­ter Pounders with Cheese, owner/chef Aldo Lanzil­lotta’s King West cafe­te­ria is to sausage. Con­struct them from nat­u­rally raised and lo­cally sourced meat and hot dogs be­come haute dogs. Serve them with an im­pres­sive card of mi­cro­brews in a cav­ernous room that looks like a cross be­tween a Bavar­ian beer hall and the Ossington sub­way sta­tion and watch the kids queue.

Best: South African-style boerewors sausage of densely ground beef tick­led with toasted co­rian­der seeds; tra­di­tional veal and pork bratwurst; basil-scented chicken with ar­ti­choke hearts; ground turkey ’n’ chicken mix with mild-man­nered Padrón pep­pers; pheas­ant laced with ap­ple; guinea fowl with mi­cro-diced asparagus; smoky rab­bit with tomato; bi­son with blue­ber­ries and maple syrup; kan­ga­roo; all served on whole wheat buns dressed with grainy mus­tard and ei­ther sauer­kraut, sautéed onions, pep­pers or jalapeños; sides of pre-salted Bel­gianstyle frites fried in duck fat. Avoid: any sausage served in the cur­ry­wurst style, the un­fath­omably popular Ger­man street food that finds per­fectly ac­cept­able grilled brats on hunks o’ rus­tic bread smoth­ered in vile cur­ried ketchup. Wvrst don’t get much worse. Sun­day to Wed­nes­day 11:30 am to 11 pm, Thurs­day 11:30 am to mid­night, Fri­day and Satur­day 11:30 am to 1 am. Closed some hol­i­days. Reser­va­tions ac­cepted. Av­er­age main $8. Li­censed.

Rat­ing: NNN 3

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