NOW Magazine - - COVER STORY -

Tahini is the life force of this Geary café, which grinds its own on a mas­sive stone mill at the back. (Show up early enough, and you can watch them milling the day’s batch.) The stuff turns up in ev­ery­thing, from nutty lat­tes ($4.50) to hum­mus plates to a half-dozen hal­vah flavours ($2.40/100 g). They don’t need dairy or eggs to make things rich here (hon­estly, the amount drown­ing the hum­mus might even be too much of a good thing), but there’s still room on the menu for dishes of lab­neh hold­ing in a caldera of olive oil and con­fit gar­lic cloves ($10), or pi­quant shak­shouka served with plush, pil­lowy pita ($13). Most of the brunch menu is served daily, but come on a week­end to try the open-faced Black Sab­bath egg sand­wich doused in squidink-like black tahini ($16), or e-ja ($15), a herb-packed Iraqi omelette (you’ll never guess what’s put on top). 217 Geary, at Duf­ferin, 416-516-7765, par­al­lel­broth­

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