Close encounter of the diverse Australian wine kind

These varieties conjure a blend of history, evolution and revolution

Wine Australia recently invited sommeliers and wine media to experience Australia Up Close. It wasn’t an opportunity to jet across the world for a visit, sadly, but rather a chance to taste an eye-opening selection of wine that global education manager Mark Davidson selected to show what’s happening Down Under.

Davidson worked as a sommelier in Toronto and Vancouver before signing on to promote Australian wines around the world. He’s an accomplished presenter who’s clearly is passionate about the subject.

“I tend to look at the world of Australian wine through three key concepts,” Davidson said. “These are things that are always in the back of mind.”

Basically, the modern face of Australian wine can be conjured up as a blend of history, evolution and revolution.

“I like to talk about history because we have it,” Davidson explained at the June 13 tasting at Toronto’s Design Exchange.

“We have got the oldest vines on the planet when it comes to varieties like Shiraz, Mourvèdre and Grenache. There are also classic wine styles that have been around for ages and family businesses that are, in some cases, six or seven generations in.”

The evolution of Australian wine can be seen in the modern styles of wine, notably Chardonnay and Riesling that have more finesse and elegance than before.

Revolution, meanwhile, is marked by the introduction of new varieties and new ideas taking root in vineyards and cellars across the country.

Davidson took the novel approach of only pouring white wines, serving a tidy collection of delicious wines to show what exists beyond Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and other reds.

Pointing at the wines on the table, Davidson explained they all told stories about the region in which they’re grown as well as the history and evolution of wine in Australia. “The diversity that exists in places like France also exists in Australia,” he said. “Shiraz might be our calling card, but there’s a lot more to discover.” Christopher Waters is the co-founder and editor of Vines, a national consumer wine magazine.