To refer to New York as a melting pot is an old cliché, yet one that certainly holds true, especially in the world of fashion. That said, the buzzword here has always been sportswear—neat, clean and functional has always been more the norm. To that end there is a celebration of the casual in the air, a playful spin on “athleisure” wear. Alexander Wang constructed tanks and tank dresses in fluffy mohair, Proenza Schouler featured roomy trousers, and Prabal Gurung and Thom Browne artfully reworked the ski sweater, all reinventing key sportswear pieces in a modern and luxurious way.
Some examples of this easy athleticism took a turn for the darker side. Two notable collections, those of Marc Jacobs and Rodarte, channelled the brooding Gothic romance that resided in London: Black lace spliced into frilly dresses topped with sharp leather jackets made softer with ruffles at Rodarte, while Marc Jacobs played with volume, blowing up sweatshirts and letterman jackets to enormous proportions in his hit Gothic-themed collection.
From fashion capital to fashion capital, and season after season but especially this fall, it’s clear: Though each of these important fashion capitals has their own unique points of view, no matter which stage fashion appears on, there is one rule that always applies. As long as it’s artfully and beautifully done, anything goes.