city, gastronomically speaking). Here, you get both. The space was formerly the renowned bar Inopia, until Albert left and his partner, Joan Martinez, turned it into Lolita, a rollicking taperia that has perfected heightened takes on classic small plates (including patatas bravas and fried fish) mixed with innovative updates (La Bomba de l’eixample, a croquette stuffed with meat and tomato sauce that is far more dangerous than it sounds). and fruit pops. This place is not for them. El Vaso de Oro is an old man bar of the highest order. It’s a long, narrow space a few blocks from the water where the waiters, all dressed in white captain’s garb, never leave the back of the bar and address you with Catalan superlatives and vats of house-made beer. The menu is small but perfect: cheap, oily tapas and their signature grilled tuna with a side of fried peppers. it at dirty old bars and fusty high-end restaurants alike, it’s worth seeking out one of Morro Fi’s five tiny locations. Started by a couple of friends who wanted to bring craftsmanship and technique back into the world of vermouth, they began making their own, which, when paired with their house-cured olives and boquerones, stands as some of the best in Spain.