But­ter foun­tain draws critic’s scorn

Lob­ster just goes bet­ter with clar­i­fied but­ter READ THE FULL RE­VIEW AT

StarMetro Toronto - - TORONTO - Amy Pataki

Fa­ther’s Day contest of­fers tower of fat. There are so many things wrong with a but­ter foun­tain.

First of all, the colour. This but­ter is as white as milk. That’s be­cause Longo’s mixes cream and fish stock into the bur­bling but­ter­fat.

Se­condly, as im­por­tant as but­ter is to many cuisines, it is not foun­tain wor­thy. Choco­late is. So is cham­pagne. Even a na­cho cheese foun­tain at a quirky wed­ding is un­der­stand­able. But mass quan­ti­ties of melted but­ter don’t taste good. For this rea­son, lob­ster restau­rants serve clar­i­fied but­ter in small dishes. THES­TAR.COM/LIFE/ FOOD_WINE

Yet Longo’s chef Tony Cam­mal­leri de­vel­oped the but­ter foun­tain with “patented To­tal Coat­ing Tech­nol­ogy” to en­sure each lob­ster chunk reaches max­i­mal but­ter-to-seafood ra­tio. The thing is, lob­ster doesn’t need but­ter sauce to taste good. It is per­fec­tion on its own, much like fresh shucked oys­ters don’t need horse­rad­ish.

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