POINT OF DEPARTURE

By night, the neon-bright Dōtonbori can so be intimidating that it may be tempting to give up on the search for the perfect authentic meal. Don’t. Instead, sign on with Arigato Japan Tours’ Osaka night food tour. With a local leading the charge, the tour winds through the Dōtonbori maze past the city’s best whisky bars, succulent street food, and the centuriesold Kaminari Sushi, where one can learn proper etiquette from the sushi master (i.e. dot your wasabi directly on the fish, not in the soy sauce). Other highlights include stops at centuries-old temples and Osaka Ninja Yashiki, whose stuntman-owner teaches guests the way of the ninjas and how to make black squid ink takoyaki (octopus balls). www.arigatojapan.co.jp