Eat­ing Her­itage

Taste & Travel - - Contents -

ANITA STE­WART ex­plores the Slow Food move­ment in New Brunswick.

AS CANA­DIAN CITIES go, Monc­ton is vastly un­der­rated in culi­nary terms. Low slung on the banks of the tidal Petit­co­diac River where the high­est tides from the Bay of Fundy cre­ate a world-renowned tidal bore, the city is a com­bi­na­tion of clap­board and paint, red stone and 60s ar­chi­tec­ture. It's a mod­est place, qui­etly proud of its Aca­dian roots, but for the past decade, and not much more than that, it has been de­vel­op­ing a food cul­ture that's dis­tinctly its own, based on an­cient Aca­dian tra­di­tions, where recipes are handed down, seeds are saved and farm mar­kets flour­ish in their au­then­tic­ity. The new cui­sine of this largely Fran­co­phone re­gion is be­ing led by a hand­ful of ex­ceed­ingly cre­ative chefs whose restau­rants could eas­ily hold their own in Toronto, Mon­treal or Van­cou­ver.

PHO­TOS THIS SPREAD Pierre Richard’s fill ts of smelt atop greens from the Dieppe Mar­ket; The sweep­ing Aca­dian coast­line.

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