ANITA STEWART explores the Slow Food movement in New Brunswick.
AS CANADIAN CITIES go, Moncton is vastly underrated in culinary terms. Low slung on the banks of the tidal Petitcodiac River where the highest tides from the Bay of Fundy create a world-renowned tidal bore, the city is a combination of clapboard and paint, red stone and 60s architecture. It's a modest place, quietly proud of its Acadian roots, but for the past decade, and not much more than that, it has been developing a food culture that's distinctly its own, based on ancient Acadian traditions, where recipes are handed down, seeds are saved and farm markets flourish in their authenticity. The new cuisine of this largely Francophone region is being led by a handful of exceedingly creative chefs whose restaurants could easily hold their own in Toronto, Montreal or Vancouver.
PHOTOS THIS SPREAD Pierre Richard’s fill ts of smelt atop greens from the Dieppe Market; The sweeping Acadian coastline.