MON­TREAL

The Culi­nary Trav­eller's Guide

Taste & Travel - - Contents - BY EMILY KENNEDY

Neigh­bour­hoods

OLD MON­TREAL Lin­ing the edge of the St Lawrence River is Vieux Mon­treal with its cob­ble­stone streets, pic­turesque squares, old-world ar­chi­tec­ture, quais, cafés, fine din­ing and small parks. Charm­ing, although nar­row, Rue St Paul is where you'll find many ar­ti­sans, while Rue de la Com­mune is a breezy wa­ter­front street teem­ing with cy­clists, wan­der­ing tourists and Cirque du Soleil pa­trons.

DOWN­TOWN Rue Ste-Cather­ine is the busy hub of down­town with big-name fash­ion brands and de­part­ment stores. But along Notre-Dame Ouest and Rue Charlevoix is a some­what se­cluded eat­ing and drink­ing scene. For ex­am­ple, Res­tau­rant Can­dide, hid­den in the back half of a church in the sub­urb called Lit­tle Bur­gundy, is a unique fine-din­ing ex­pe­ri­ence.

LE PLATEAU MONT-ROYAL This is a hip area for eat­ing out (only sec­ond in cool­ness to Mile End and Mile Ex), with a range of restau­rants for all meals of the day, although if you eat at the fa­mous Au Pied du Co­chon, you may not need any other meals! You'll also find a healthy amount of BYOB bistros and big plates along Le Jardins de Panos.

MILE END, MILE EX and LIT­TLE ITALY Look­ing to do some culi­nary shop­ping? Lit­tle Italy is the best area for kitchen items. These neigh­bour­hoods are also where you'll find some re­ally unique, although not nec­es­sar­ily pricey, bistros, lounges and eater­ies as well as leg­endary bagel shops, and many cafés. Hip new Mile Ex is con­sid­ered Mon­treal's most cre­ative area, with hid­den bars, brasseries and many bou­tique eater­ies.

Mar­kets

MARCHÉ JEAN-TALON This is the city's largest food mar­ket, with sev­eral hun­dred stalls sell­ing all kinds of fresh pro­duce, and of­fer­ing many taste tests! There are also sev­eral delis and cafés where you can get sand­wiches, crêpes and other meals. 7075 Ave Cas­grain, 7 am–6 pm Mon, Wed and Sat; to 8 pm Thu and Fri; to 5 pm Sun.

Mon­treal's great tastes.

There are many lo­cal bagel bak­eries. For a fresh bagel b any time of day, try StVi­a­teur Bagel (open 24 hours) at their 263 St-Vi­a­teur Ouest lo­ca­tion.

Mon­treal smoked meat is avail­able all over town, but try Schwartz's — a Mon­treal tra­di­tion since 1928 — and while you're there pick up some

Mon­treal steak spice to bring home. Schwartz's Deli, 3895 Boul St-Lau­rent.

Visit Marché des Saveurs (in Marché Jean-Talon) for all kinds of Que­be­cois del­i­ca­cies, such as ar­ti­san cheeses, pre­serves, maple syrup and more.

Don't leave Que­bec with­out a taste of French-Cana­dian clas­sics pou­tine, tour­tière, cre­tons and poud­ing chômeur.

Some of Mon­treal's great brew­ers. • Uni­broue • Mi­cro­brasserie de Charlevoix • Le Trou du di­a­ble • Les Trois Mous­que­taires • Goudale • Bell Guele • Brasseurs du Monde • Dieu du Ciel • Pit Cari­bou • Le Cas­tor • Le Lièvre • Les Soeurs Grises • Brasseurs Il­lim­ités • Brasseurs Dun­ham • Le Bil­bo­quet • McAus­lan • L'Alchimiste • Charlevoix

MARCHÉ AT­WA­TER You'll find this mar­ket on the banks of the Canal de La­chine. In­side the vaulted hall are high-end del­i­catessens and spe­cialty food shops, out­side are var­i­ous other ven­dors. 138 Ave At­wa­ter, 7 am–6 pm Mon-Wed; to 7 pm Thu; to 8 pm Fri; to 5 pm Sat and Sun.

MARCHÉ BONSECOURS Built in 1847, this is Mon­treal's old­est pub­lic mar­ket, which sold meats and fresh pro­duce right up un­til 1963. Although you won't find fresh in­gre­di­ents here to­day, the neo­clas­si­cal her­itage build­ing is still an ed­i­fice to be ad­mired. It now houses sev­eral cafés, and bou­tique shops sell­ing arts, crafts and fash­ion pieces. In warmer months a num­ber of al fresco restau­rants take over the front façade at 350 Saint-Paul Est. www.marchebon­sec­ours.qc.ca

All of Mon­treal's mar­kets are open year-round. For a com­plete list­ing of Mon­treal's farmers' mar­kets see www.marchep­ublics-mtl.com

Kitchen Stores

LES TOUILLEURS 152 Av­enue Lau­rier Ouest. QUINCAILLERIE DANTE 6851 StDo­minique Street.

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