De La Renta de­sign­ers bring sto­ried theme to new col­lec­tion

A night at the mu­seum for Her­rera show

The Expositor (Brantford) - - LIFE - JO­CE­LYN NOVECK and NI­COLE EVATT

Some high­lights from this past week’s New York Fash­ion Week: Denim at Os­car de la Renta

There was a whiff of change at Os­car de la Renta, where new de­sign­ers Fernando Gar­cia and Laura Kim pre­sented a whim­si­cal col­lec­tion fea­tur­ing ca­sual gar­ments like midriff-bar­ing denim jack­ets and roomy wind­break­ers.

It also was what you would call a sig­na­ture col­lec­tion — lit­er­ally. Many of the gar­ments bore the sig­na­ture, in var­i­ous forms, of the la­bel’s late, leg­endary founder, de la Renta — either in script, or even in large, sparkly let­ters spell­ing out his name.

“We’re cel­e­brat­ing him un­abashedly,” Gar­cia said back­stage.

The de­sign­ers noted that the only time un­til now that de la Renta’s sig­na­ture ap­peared on his clothes was on a gown that Sarah Jes­sica Parker wore to the Met Gala in 2014.

He added that he and Kim had up­dated the im­age of de la Renta’s sig­na­ture af­ter look­ing around and find­ing that “the sig­na­tures he ac­tu­ally left be­hind were much more leg­i­ble, and true to his hand­writ­ing.”

The de­sign­ers, pre­sent­ing only their sec­ond Fash­ion Week col­lec­tion for the la­bel af­ter tak­ing over fol­low­ing the sud­den depar­ture of Peter Cop­ping, be­gan a run­way show with a se­ries of looks with a paint splat­ter mo­tif.

They were telling a story, they ex­plained, of a woman try­ing to de­cide what to paint. Once she paints, she signs the can­vas.

While dresses and skirts had a paint splat­ter ef­fect, the theme even ex­tended to the stiletto shoes: The heels looked like the stems of black paint brushes.

New tech­niques be­ing used by the la­bel in­cluded laser-cut leather, Gar­cia said, along with the denim, part of an ef­fort to ex­pand the clien­tele and the ap­peal of the brand.

For tra­di­tion­al­ists, there were red car­pet-ready gowns that de­fine the brand’s im­age, like strap­less gowns in tulle with full skirts and even a ruby-dyed mink coat.

Art in move­ment, at Carolina Her­rera

Carolina Her­rera be­lieves that fash­ion is “art in move­ment,” and so nat­u­rally one of her favourite places to show her clothes is in a mu­seum. In the past, she’s taken her show to the stun­ning court­yard at the Frick Col­lec­tion, and for this Fash­ion Week she man­aged to se­cure the sculp­ture gar­den at the Mu­seum of Mod­ern Art (MoMA).

“I’ve been try­ing to do it for many years, and at last I could and I am so hon­oured to be here,” the de­signer said.

An out­door court­yard with its bub­bling foun­tains served at the back­drop for Her­rera’s chic gar­den party and ’80s-in­spired col­lec­tion.

There was ging­ham, and lots of puffed sleeves, big shoul­ders, colour­ful polka-dots and waists cinched with over­sized bows. Se­quins reigned supreme.

“This col­lec­tion is all about colour,” Her­rera said. “Colour is very pow­er­ful and makes you think in a dif­fer­ent way. Colour makes you see things in dif­fer­ent eyes.”

Her­rera’s sig­na­ture white blouse also made a run­way ap­pear­ance, this time with a deep V-neck, dra­matic sleeves and a ging­ham wrap skirt.

Mod­els walk the run­way dur­ing the Carolina Her­rera fash­ion show as part of NYFW Spring/Sum­mer 2018. CHARLES SYKES/INVISION/AP

A model walks the run­way at the Os­car de la Renta Spring/Sum­mer 2018 fash­ion show dur­ing Fash­ion Week. KATHY WIL­LENS/AP

A model walks the run­way at the Os­car de la Renta Spring/Sum­mer 2018 fash­ion show dur­ing Fash­ion Week. KATHY WIL­LENS/AP

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