Cold spicy noo­dles of­fer an­ti­dote to sum­mer heat

The Hamilton Spectator - - FOOD - DAVID TANIS

With tem­per­a­tures soaring, I give you three lit­tle words of com­fort: Korean! Cold! Noo­dles!

A tra­di­tional dish, it’s called bibim guksu — mixed noo­dles — and it’s packed with kim­chee and other kicky condi­ments that form a sort of sweet-and-sour kim­chee dress­ing.

Many of th­ese in­gre­di­ents are avail­able at an or­di­nary su­per­mar­ket, and vir­tu­ally ev­ery­thing can be bought on­line, but it’s more fun to go to a Korean gro­cery, if only to see all the types of kim­chee.

As for the how of it, you first as­sem­ble the sauce, with chopped kim­chee, gin­ger, gar­lic, sesame and two types of red pep­per (paste and flakes).

I add a lit­tle miso for depth. A lit­tle brown sugar, some vine­gar, some lime juice.

There’s no flame in­volved.

Cold Spicy Kim­chee Noo­dles

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERV­INGS

For the dress­ing: 1 cup finely chopped kim­chee, plus 2 ta­ble­spoons kim­chee juice 1 medium gar­lic clove, grated 2 tea­spoons grated gin­ger 2 tbsp brown sugar 1 tbsp gochu­jang (Korean hot pep­per paste) 1 tbsp Ja­panese red miso 1 tbsp sesame oil 1 tbsp rice vine­gar 2 tbsp lime juice 1 tsp or­ange zest 1 tsp fish sauce ½ tsp gochugaru (Korean red pep­per flakes) Salt For the noo­dles: 8 ounces flat rice noo­dles or soba noo­dles 1 medium cu­cum­ber, peeled, halved and sliced into half-moons (about 1 cup) 1 cup halved cherry to­ma­toes 3 or 4 large red radishes, sliced into thin rounds ½ cup scal­lions, sliv­ered 1 ser­rano chili, thinly sliced (op­tional) 3 eggs, boiled for 7 min­utes, cooled in ice wa­ter, peeled and halved (cook 9 min. for a firmer yolk) 2 tbsp toasted sesame seeds Cilantro sprigs or chopped cilantro, for gar­nish Lime wedges, for serv­ing

To­tal time: 30 min­utes 1. Make the sauce: Put the kim­chee, juice, gar­lic, gin­ger, brown sugar, gochu­jang, miso, sesame oil, rice vine­gar, lime juice, or­ange zest, fish sauce and gochugaru in a mix­ing bowl, and stir well to com­bine. Taste and ad­just salt. Let stand at room tem­per­a­ture for at least 10 min­utes (or you can store overnight in the fridge, cov­ered).

2. Bring a large pot of gen­er­ously salted wa­ter to a boil. Add noo­dles and cook for about 5 min­utes, or un­til cooked through but still firm. Drain in a colan­der, trans­fer to a bowl of cold wa­ter to cool, then drain again and set aside, cov­ered with a towel.

3. Just be­fore serv­ing, put noo­dles in a large mix­ing bowl. Add the sauce, along with cu­cum­ber, to­ma­toes, radishes, scal­lions and chili (if us­ing) and toss gen­tly to coat. Di­vide among in­di­vid­ual serv­ing bowls. Top each bowl with a halved egg, sesame seeds, cilantro and a squeeze of lime juice.

This cold noo­dle dish, a great an­ti­dote to the sum­mer heat, is a breeze to put to­gether, de­spite the long list of in­gre­di­ents.

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