GUCCI’S RENAISSANCE INDULGENCE
Artistically eccentric collection shown in Medicis’ Florence
FLORENCE, ITALY — Alessandro Michele’s midseason Cruise 2018 collection was as artistically eccentric as the portraits hanging in the Medicis’ private Varsari Corridor that guests took to arrive at the exclusive runway show Monday evening at the Pitti Palace venue.
It was a night of Renaissance indulgence for the Gucci crowd, with celebrity guests including Elton John, Kirsten Dunst, Jared Leto, Dakota Johnson, accompanied by sisters Stella Banderas and Grace Johnson.
Before the runway show, guests were treated to private time with Botticelli’s masterpieces in the Uffizi Gallery and a guided walk along the Vasari Corridor built by the Medicis to connect the Uffizi with the Pitti Palace that is otherwise closed to the public for renovations.
Renaissance-style princesses in flowing gowns, their faces ornately framed by pearls, glided through the 19th century galleries, their stiletto heels muffled by the Gucci-installed yellow carpet to protect the marble and terracotta floors.
They were followed by hapless tourists in designer Michele’s Gucci geek-wear of oversized stripes, with Gucci pouches hung around their necks like passport holders, or foreign emissaries to the palace in exotic tunics worn belted over palazzo pants.
Long golden fringe on the back of leather jackets gave the impression of putti wings. Courtly puff sleeves bellowed exaggeratedly on a furry jacket.
In an era when head coverings are often a political statement, Michele’s millinery was full of fancy, including golden and silvery laurel garlands, furry hoods, pearl studded caps, metallic turbans and headpieces with stars shooting upward.
The Gucci logo has a central role in Michele’s rendering of the brand, along with the iconic snake. He called the double G logo “the hieroglyphics of the company. It is a kind of pop symbol. It makes everything powerful.”
In an era when head coverings are often a political statement, Michele’s millinery was full of fancy.