True patriot love


“I live in dresses, but this el­e­gant, edgy pantsuit—with its asym­met­ri­cal de­tails and vo­lu­mi­nous sleeves—had me at ‘red vis­cose jacquard.’ The light-as-a-feather fab­ric moves beau­ti­fully.” “Wear­ing an un­con­ven­tional ‘fash­ion’ piece can be in­tim­i­dat­ing, but the Markoo girls have fit down to a science. I felt cool and, dare I say, sexy all night.” “Any­one who knows me knows I love a sack dress. This el­e­vated shirt dress was the per­fect mix of com­fort and fash­ion. I felt like my­self, which is re­ally im­por­tant for me.” “I felt like a ’70s disco diva meets ex­tremely glam­orous house painter—very foxy, but also cool be­cause the sil­hou­ette is so un­ex­pected.”

THE PANTSUIT SID NEIGUM Cho­sen by: Laura deCarufel, editor-in-chief

Laura on Sid Neigum: I’ve been a Sid Neigum fan since he burst onto the style scene in 2012, win­ning the Toronto Fash­ion In­cu­ba­tor (TFI) New La­bels award and an­nounc­ing his am­bi­tion to be great via sculp­tural wear­able art in­spired by mod­u­lar origami. Net-A- Porter, the gi­ant fash­ion e- comm site, just picked up Neigum’s Fall 2017 col­lec­tion—a busi­ness game changer, ac­cord­ing to the de­signer. I called him re­cently to talk about what’s new and what’s next. What does it mean to you to be a Cana­dian de­signer? “I’ve been re­ally lucky—I’ve had amaz­ing sup­port from TFI and dif­fer­ent com­pe­ti­tions. I’ve also re­al­ized that in or­der to make it, you need to travel to where the [in­ter­na­tional buy­ers] are. This com­ing sea­son will be my 10th time go­ing to Paris for Fash­ion Week. When I first started go­ing, I was part of a multi-brand show­room—peo­ple would be com­ing from Margiela to see mine.” That must have been wild!

“To­tally. You feel like, ‘Okay, I know noth­ing.’ But that’s what drives you for­ward— be­ing ex­posed to that makes you bet­ter. Now I set up rogue show­rooms in an Airbnb with racks and a fit model and do ap­point­ments there. I feel like I’m fi­nally fig­ur­ing out what peo­ple want and how it fits into what I do. I want to dress peo­ple, I want to make cool, con­cep­tual pieces and I want to have peo­ple wear­ing my clothes and feel­ing good in them.” What was your fall in­spi­ra­tion? “I wanted to ex­per­i­ment with more fluid fabrics—so in­stead of us­ing a dou­ble-bonded, struc­tured fab­ric, I tried the same pat­tern in a vel­vet that has no struc­ture at all. It’s in­ter­est­ing to ap­ply your DNA in a dif­fer­ent way.” How are you cel­e­brat­ing Canada Day? “I haven’t thought about that! I’ll prob­a­bly have a few drinks— hope­fully not in the stu­dio!”


Cho­sen by: Jil­lian

Vieira, fash­ion editor

Jil­lian on Markoo: I’ve been cham­pi­oning Markoo, an ul­tra-con­tem­po­rary, down­town-girl brand de­signed by Toronto duo Tania Martins and Mona Koochek, since its in­cep­tion four years ago. For me, as a stylist, the line’s off­beat ap­proach to fab­ric con­struc­tion has al­ways made an im­pres­sion ( I even put a sump­tu­ous suede dress of theirs on our most re­cent cover of The Kit Com­pact). As is the case for many Cana­dian fash­ion brands, though, mass per­cep­tion and there­fore ap­pre­ci­a­tion, has been a slow burn. But in­sid­ers know that Markoo is a cou­ple big e- comm-buys-slash- en­dorse­ments from blow­ing up into Ellery or Molly God­dard ter­ri­tory. I con­nected with Koochek by phone. I can’t get enough of the in­no­va­tion in this col­lec­tion, from the to­tally ob­scure bub­blewrap-like ma­te­rial to the over­sized, de­tach­able pock­ets. How has your de­sign ap­proach evolved from day one? “Start­ing with this col­lec­tion, one of the things we are try­ing to do go­ing for­ward is com­bine some­thing util­i­tar­ian and very street with some­thing that is more fem­i­nine and lux­u­ri­ous. For city women, there’s a hus­tle and bus­tle, and you’re al­ways on the go. But we want to bring back a bit of that ro­mance to the ev­ery­day.”

How do you see the brand’s pro­gres­sion over the next cou­ple

years? “There is a pretty solid plan de­vel­op­ing: We’re most likely go­ing to move our base to Lon­don, Eng­land. It’s been a strug­gle for us to get peo­ple to take a chance on us here. If we didn’t work on cus­tom or­ders, we wouldn’t have had enough cash flow to keep mak­ing col­lec­tions.” There are so many chal­lenges for Cana­dian de­sign­ers. What are some of the for­tunes you’ve ex­pe­ri­enced? “Lo­cally, we have a cult fol­low­ing, a com­mu­nity of re­ally cool women who have sup­ported the brand and kept us alive. We con­sider you among those girls who have al­ways been ‘I love what you guys do.’ It’s been amaz­ing get­ting a lot of sup­port on the ground.” How will you two be cel­e­brat­ing Canada

Day this year? “Our lookbook shoot is shortly after, so we’ll be work­ing [ laughs]. But we’re also go­ing to have a big down­town bar­be­cue on my rooftop. We’re build­ing a 10-foot ta­ble for our pa­tio!”


Cho­sen by: Rani Sheen, beauty di­rec­tor

Rani on Horses Ate­lier: Heidi Sopinka and Clau­dia Dey have a knack for mak­ing clothes that leave an im­pres­sion with­out try­ing too hard— Feist thinks so, too (she’s wear­ing Horses on the cover of her new al­bum, Plea­sure). A de­sign team since 2012, Sopinka and Dey don’t con­fine their cre­ativ­ity to fash­ion—they’ve cre­ated the­atre cos­tumes and both have nov­els in the works. I talked with Dey about jump­suits, bik­ing to work and Canada Day plans.

Horses is known for in­cred­i­ble jump­suits. How do you ap­proach de­sign­ing them? “We al­ways work from the val­ues we hold dear: util­ity, ver­sa­til­ity, time­less­ness. We love a min­i­mal­ist ap­proach, see­ing the over­alls stand­ing nearly alone, as you styled them; we also love to see them with our high­col­lar blouse and a vin­tage heel.” What does it mean to you to be a

Cana­dian de­signer? “We’re more proud than ever to be liv­ing, work­ing and rais­ing our chil­dren in Canada. Ev­ery step of our de­sign process oc­curs here—we can ride our bi­cy­cles to the fac­tory that sews our pieces. The Horses woman cares about where a piece was made.”

How else would you de­scribe the

Horses woman? “She might be an ar­chi­tect, pot­ter, painter, doc­tor, banker, jour­nal­ist, mother, grand­mother. She’s an au­ton­o­mous thinker. She doesn’t fol­low trends; for her, style is au­to­bi­og­ra­phy and she is script­ing it rather than buy­ing it.” What’s your in­spi­ra­tion for fall?

“The char­ac­ter Ne­dra from James

Sal­ter’s novel Light Years. Thatch­ing, weav­ing, ori­gins. And our grand­moth­ers, who were mas­ter seam­stresses.” How are you celebr at ing

Canada Day? “I’ll be go­ing up north. There will be a bon­fire in a field, a cook­out, beau­ti­ful wine and stargaz­ing.” THE SHIRT DRESS PINK TARTAN Cho­sen by: Jessica Hotson, cre­ative di­rec­tor

Jessica on Pink Tartan: Since launch­ing in 2002, Pink Tartan has emerged as an icon of ca­sual cool in the Cana­dian fash­ion land­scape. I love the brand’s breezy, min­i­mal­ist sep­a­rates— and so do celebs like Char­l­ize Theron and Kim Cat­trall. I chat­ted with pres­i­dent and head de­signer Kim New­port- Mim­ran about s tyle and sus­tain­abil­ity. How im­por­tant is be­ing a de­signer in Canada to you? “Ca n ada is an amaz­ing place to live and work, es­pe­cially when I look at what’s go­ing on in the world. I re­cently made a con­scious de­ci­sion to move pro­duc­tion back to Canada—we were about 75 per cent off­shore, and now we’re go­ing to be 80 per cent pro­duced here. We’re work­ing with re­cy­cled fabrics and or­ganic ma­te­rial so that we’re re­duc­ing pes­ti­cides. Hav­ing pieces made in my back­yard gives me more ac­cess to the de­vel­op­ment process from start to fin­ish.” That must re­ally change how you work. “It’s like a breath of fresh air for me be­cause I’m not get­ting on a plane and trav­el­ling for 20 hours to look at prod­ucts. It’s won­der­ful work­ing with Cana­dian man­u­fac­tur­ers— a lot of them are here be­cause they love apparel, and that comes through in their work.” What’s your de­sign phi­los­o­phy?

“I de­sign clothes that I love to live in. That’s prob­a­bly what makes my clothes so wear­able—they have to stand up to what hap­pens in my day and my life­style. I’m de­sign­ing a lot more in sea­son in­stead of de­sign­ing a whole col­lec­tion that doesn’t get pro­duced for a sea­son out. I’m tak­ing a much more life­style ap­proach to the brand be­cause that’s how I’m feel­ing.” What are your Canada Day plans?

“It’s ac­tu­ally my an­niver­sary! This year one of my clos­est friends is cel­e­brat­ing a big birth­day, and I’m go­ing to be in the South of France on Canada Day. I can never for­get my an­niver­sary, and I al­ways get a long week­end, so I think I planned that well!”





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