Rise & dine

Made-in-house dough­nuts, pick­les and pas­trami

Thornhill Post - - Food -

#4 White Lily Diner The own­ers of this 29-seat diner don’t make a big deal of it, but they smoke their own pas­trami, fer­ment their own pick­les and bake their own bread. They even make dough­nuts, in dif­fer­ent flavours, ev­ery day. And the at­ten­tion to de­tail, qual­ity and fresh­ness pays off. Ev­ery­thing on their con­cise menu — smoked turkey sand­wich, bis­cuits, grits, sausage gravy — is a gem. Chef Ben Denham’s time at ca­sual restau­rants with high stan­dards (Elec­tric Mud, Hoof Café) has been dis­tilled down to a col­lec­tion of dishes that of­fer heavy, block­buster sat­is­fac­tion (but­ter­milk grid­dle cakes with cot­tage cheese, patty melt with poblano rel­ish). And there are lighter op­tions (kale cae­sar, blanched broc­coli salad) to mit­i­gate post-pan­cake lethargy. 678 Queen St. E. #26 Dim Sum King I have been com­ing to this clas­sic cart-ser­vice res­tau­rant since the ta­bles at the back were filled with old men hold­ing chop­sticks in one hand, a cig­a­rette in the other. It hasn’t changed much. Large fam­i­lies with hy­per­ac­tive chil­dren are still seated on the dais. There’s al­ways a lineup after 11:30 a.m. on the week­end. And carts still rum­ble be­tween ta­bles, wait­ers oc­ca­sion­ally paus­ing to lift lids on bam­boo steam­ers filled with char siu bao (bar­be­cue pork buns), har gow (shrimp dumplings) and che­ung fun (rice noo­dle rolls). As op­tions glide past you, it’s al­ways a race to see if you will find your favourite dish be­fore you fill up on noo­dles, pan-fried dumplings or lo bak go (turnip cakes). 421 Dun­das St. W., 3rd Floor

But­ter­milk grid­dle cakes with a whole lotta but­ter

Har gow dumplings get all steamed up

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