WEST

Ace

For more than half a decade now, this Roncesvalles haunt has drawn a steady crowd of locals who pack the restaurant’s Formica bar for pints and cozy banquettes for elevated comfort food. Previously a diner and later a Chinese restaurant, the room is outfitted in art deco accents, mismatched antique dinnerware and sepia-toned, pagoda-printed wallpaper. Meat-heavy plates, like a velvety chicken pâté paired with grainy mustard and thinly sliced pickled onions, dominate the menu. A benchmark burger made with house-smoked, twice-ground brisket and sweet bacon jam is made even better by thick-cut fries. Regulars know to save room for the tarted-up lowbrow desserts, like the crunchy, salty and sweet Skor Ritz pie. 231A Roncesvalles Ave., 416-792-7729. $$VAE

Bestellen

In the five years since this carnivore’s paradise opened on College, it’s remained true to its original mission. Daily butchered dry-aged beef and house-cured charcuterie are still the heart of the menu, though the kitchen now puts increased emphasis on refined plates of pasta and seasonal salads. Worn barnwood, exposed brick and a wallsize mural (of meat, naturally) provide an inviting atmosphere for the eclectic crowd who congregate at communal tables, digging into côte de boeuf, roasted bone marrow and decadent burgers; ambitious groups can order a whole roasted suckling pig with 72 hours’ notice. Attentive service, potent cocktails and great desserts—like a rich earl grey and chocolate budino sprinkled with kosher salt—complement a memorable meal. 972 College St., 647-341-6769. $$$WA

Cadillac Jenkins

Taking over the upstairs space at Queen and Shaw, which previously housed Linwood Essentials cocktail parlour, DJ Tyrone Gayle has set up a Caribbean spot that’s equal parts restaurant and bar—and the playlist is excellent, of course. Rum plays a big role in the cocktail list, and the fried and curried snacks mix island street foods with smart plating and plenty of sorrel.