Toronto Life - - Where To Eat -

FRENCH Snug in a ban­quette by the open kitchen, the faint glow of the hang­ing hon­ey­comb fixtures re­flected on its pol­ished curve, you’ll cast aside your bi­ases about sub­ur­ban dining. Chef Sean Mac­Don­ald and his team have cre­ated an ex­quis­ite tast­ing menu. The amuse, a pine nut mac­aron with a hint of laven­der, raises ex­pec­ta­tions, but ev­ery sub­se­quent course sets a higher stan­dard. Mas­car­pone-filled ag­nolotti re­veal depth of skill with hand­made pasta rarely seen this side of Turin. Seared savoy cab­bage should be its own plate, but it’s just an ac­cent for dry-aged duck two ways: suc­cu­lent breast sur­rounded by crack­ling skin and ten­der con­fit. Servers en­sure the hap­pi­ness of each guest and, in the case of the “piñata” dessert, in­struct them how to crack a choco­late ves­sel filled with white choco­late pearls and mac­er­ated hazel­nuts over a bed of banana crème brûlée and black banana ice cream. 210 Lakeshore Rd. E., Oakville, 905-844-1286. $$$$O

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