Bar Fancy

★★1/2

Toronto Life - - Culture -

BAR AND PUB Three years in, the creaky seats at Jonathan Poon’s in­ten­tion­ally mis­named snack bar are full most nights, with din­ers lin­ger­ing over glasses of beer and plates of pick­les, or neigh­bours sipping cock­tails as they wait for take­out or­ders of fried chicken. Ei­ther ac­tiv­ity here is a plea­sure if you’re look­ing for rea­son­ably priced shar­ing plates—and to avoid the pre­tense of an ironic dive bar. The mar­quee fried bird, served with slices of white bread, house-made dills and puck­ery ranch sauce, is dusted with a salted five-spice mix rem­i­nis­cent of all-dressed chips. Fancy has al­ways tried to es­chew cock­tails for the sake of sim­plic­ity—which has proven fruit­less in a town that loves its mixed drinks. You’ll find no man­hat­tan menus or ba­con-flavoured whiskey here, but men­tion your favourite spirit and the bar­tender will pro­vide. 1070 Queen St. W., 416-546-1416. $VN

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