Rob Rossi brings grown-up Ital­ian to Duf­ferin Grove

Toronto Life - - Food & Drink -

Gi­uli­etta 972 Col­lege St., 416-964-0606

there comes an in­evitably rude dis­cov­ery for most 30-some­things— chefs in­cluded—that the he­do­nis­tic din­ing habits of their 20s need to go. The mu­sic is sud­denly too loud, the room too dark, and the hang­overs—oh, the hang­overs. At Gi­uli­etta, the Ital­ian restau­rant fash­ioned out of the now-closed hip­ster steak house Bestellen, 35-year-old chef Rob Rossi is ag­ing with his clien­tele, open­ing the kind of place where lam­br­usco gets top billing over craft beer. It’s lighter in ev­ery sense of the word. Even the plat­ings are re­fresh­ingly straight­for­ward: a tan­gle of ca­cio e pepe puls­ing with Kam­pot black pep­per; a lightly sauced white pizza topped with lardo, smoked scamorza and Si­cil­ian pis­ta­chios on a paper-thin crust; and a stew of braised goat over po­lenta that’s primed to be­come one of the city’s best win­ter dishes all too soon. The Red Fife tiramisù is a con­vinc­ing ar­gu­ment that grow­ing up shouldn’t have to mean skip­ping dessert.

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