Rob Rossi brings grown-up Italian to Dufferin Grove
Giulietta 972 College St., 416-964-0606
there comes an inevitably rude discovery for most 30-somethings— chefs included—that the hedonistic dining habits of their 20s need to go. The music is suddenly too loud, the room too dark, and the hangovers—oh, the hangovers. At Giulietta, the Italian restaurant fashioned out of the now-closed hipster steak house Bestellen, 35-year-old chef Rob Rossi is aging with his clientele, opening the kind of place where lambrusco gets top billing over craft beer. It’s lighter in every sense of the word. Even the platings are refreshingly straightforward: a tangle of cacio e pepe pulsing with Kampot black pepper; a lightly sauced white pizza topped with lardo, smoked scamorza and Sicilian pistachios on a paper-thin crust; and a stew of braised goat over polenta that’s primed to become one of the city’s best winter dishes all too soon. The Red Fife tiramisù is a convincing argument that growing up shouldn’t have to mean skipping dessert.